A spicy, robust pickle made with garlic and potent red chilli from Nagaland, this pickle will add the good kind of heat to your palate

As an introvert, I tend to avoid stepping into spaces that are traditionally marked as belonging to the ‘family’ – for example the kitchen, the dining area, the family room, etc. But all of that respect for space went flying out of the window in the face of the Khonoma’s bone-numbing cold that had my teeth clattering out unheard of tunes. A and I shuffled into the kitchen looking for something warm to ensure we stayed alive until dinner… and the taste of this garlic chilli pickle made me sit up, quite literally!

Offered rather tentatively by the homestay owner – she was probably afraid to let us face the wrath of the local red chilli that Nagaland is famous for – the sharp, spicy and robust taste opened up the sinuses and had my blood rushing to all those cold-number places.

I am a garlic girl through and through so of course I loved it a lot but oh my my…

Understanding the recipe was a bit of a struggle as the homestay owner grappled with words and terms to explain the process, until we resorted to hand actions. Made with pantry essentials and ingredients that are available in most Indian (and non-Indian) kitchens, the Garlic & Naga Red Chilli Pickle makes for a deliciously fiery achaar to your dal chawal, the drizzle to your sad sabji, the exquisite touch to your sourdough cheese grilled sandwich and more.

I’ve used the local garlic I bought in Khonoma village along with the red chilli powder I picked up from a farmers’ market outside Kigwema village. The mustard seeds, mustard oil and tomato are from the provision store and vegetable vendor a few steps from my home.

And obviously, you won’t have the Naga garlic and chilli so feel free to use whatever you have… I’m sure it’ll taste brilliant!

Things to remember

• Roughly chop the garlic cloves but don’t mince; we want the garlic pieces to roll on your tongue when you eat the pickle
• Be patient with the ‘let it sit’ portion of the recipe; the more you let the pickle sit, the more it’ll develop flavours and potency
• Be sure to store in a clean, dry glass jar.

Do let me know if you try this recipe! Leave a comment and don’t forget to tag me on Instagram at from.the.corner.table and hashtag it #fromthecornertable. I’d love to see it

If you like to keep your refrigerator stocked with condiments that uplift the mundane, check out the recipes for the Apple Chutney, the Mixed Fruit Chaatni as also the Tomato & Dates Chutney.

For regular updates on recipes, recommendations on things to read and watch and ramblings that make sense, subscribe to the newsletter – you’ll find the form in the sidebar if viewing on a screen and at the bottom if viewing on the phone. Since spamming or flooding your inbox is a huge no for me, these newsletters go out only when I’ve put up a new post or sometimes, once in a month only.

A spicy, robust pickle made with garlic and potent red chilli from Nagaland, this pickle will add the good kind of heat to your palate

As an introvert, I tend to avoid stepping into spaces that are traditionally marked as belonging to the ‘family’ – for example the kitchen, the dining area, the family room, etc. But all of that respect for space went flying out of the window in the face of the Khonoma’s bone-numbing cold that had my teeth clattering out unheard of tunes. A and I shuffled into the kitchen looking for something warm to ensure we stayed alive until dinner… and the taste of this garlic chilli pickle made me sit up, quite literally!

Offered rather tentatively by the homestay owner – she was probably afraid to let us face the wrath of the local red chilli that Nagaland is famous for – the sharp, spicy and robust taste opened up the sinuses and had my blood rushing to all those cold-number places.

I am a garlic girl through and through so of course I loved it a lot but oh my my…

Understanding the recipe was a bit of a struggle as the homestay owner grappled with words and terms to explain the process, until we resorted to hand actions. Made with pantry essentials and ingredients that are available in most Indian (and non-Indian) kitchens, the Garlic & Naga Red Chilli Pickle makes for a deliciously fiery achaar to your dal chawal, the drizzle to your sad sabji, the exquisite touch to your sourdough cheese grilled sandwich and more.

I’ve used the local garlic I bought in Khonoma village along with the red chilli powder I picked up from a farmers’ market outside Kigwema village. The mustard seeds, mustard oil and tomato are from the provision store and vegetable vendor a few steps from my home.

And obviously, you won’t have the Naga garlic and chilli so feel free to use whatever you have… I’m sure it’ll taste brilliant!

Things to remember

• Roughly chop the garlic cloves but don’t mince; we want the garlic pieces to roll on your tongue when you eat the pickle
• Be patient with the ‘let it sit’ portion of the recipe; the more you let the pickle sit, the more it’ll develop flavours and potency
• Be sure to store in a clean, dry glass jar.

Do let me know if you try this recipe! Leave a comment and don’t forget to tag me on Instagram at from.the.corner.table and hashtag it #fromthecornertable. I’d love to see it

If you like to keep your refrigerator stocked with condiments that uplift the mundane, check out the recipes for the Apple Chutney, the Mixed Fruit Chaatni as also the Tomato & Dates Chutney.

For regular updates on recipes, recommendations on things to read and watch and ramblings that make sense, subscribe to the newsletter – you’ll find the form in the sidebar if viewing on a screen and at the bottom if viewing on the phone. Since spamming or flooding your inbox is a huge no for me, these newsletters go out only when I’ve put up a new post or sometimes, once in a month only.

If you’re weary of Insta-itineraries and whirlwind checklists, perhaps it’s time to let Nagaland happen to you—slowly, deliberately, and with the grace of a place untouched by frenzy. This Northeastern gem invites not a race, but a pause. Here, you don’t “do” a holiday; you dwell in it.

Landing Lightly: Dimapur to Kohima

The gateway to Nagaland is surprisingly accessible—courtesy a direct flight from Delhi to Dimapur. No layovers, no fuss. From Dimapur, it’s a picturesque 90-minute drive to Kohima, the state’s capital, where the hills roll in like a lullaby and time decides to take the long road. For those who prefer to stay in Dimapur, you’re still in the heart of it all—with the added advantage of being just 20 minutes from Khatkhati in Assam, where the spirit flows a little more freely (more on that in a bit).

A Walk Through History

Kohima holds within it the whispers of the past. The Kohima War Cemetery, perched gracefully over green slopes, honours the brave who fought in one of World War II’s fiercest battles. It’s not just a site; it’s a silenced storyteller. The epitaph that reads “When you go home, tell them of us…” is reason enough to spend a moment longer in reflection.

Where Culture Lives On: Hornbill Village and the 16 Tribes of Nagaland

Nagaland is home to over a hundred tribes, each with its own dialect, traditions, and legacy. Among these, 16 are officially recognised as major tribes, and their presence is vividly brought to life in the Hornbill Village—a living museum where tradition stands tall.

Here, tribal architecture tells you as much as the elders do. You can walk through authentically built morungs (dormitories), see traditional weaponry once used in headhunting days, and witness daily practices that have survived centuries. The Hornbill Festival in December showcases all this and more—dance, folklore, crafts, and cuisines that are as layered as the land.

Food for the Soul—and the Stomach

Now, here’s the delightful surprise: while Nagaland’s indigenous cuisine is a delight of lightly spiced, easy-to-digest dishes—think bamboo shoot pork, fresh river fish, sticky rice—there’s no dearth of North Indian comfort food either. Craving choley bhature, jalebi, or a good old paratha? You’ll find it in Kohima’s modest eateries and hotels, served with the warmth of familiarity and a view to match.

The Other Side of the Border: Khatkhati and Dark Knight Distillery

Nagaland may be officially dry, but that doesn’t mean you’re cut off from your evening pour. A short ride to Khatkhati, across the Assam border, brings you to a clutch of bars and the emerging jewel of the local spirits scene—Dark Knight Distillery.

Here, I had the pleasure of sampling their range, including Infamous, a premium small-batch whisky with a smooth finish and surprisingly nuanced profile, and bought Lost Treasure, a cold brew coffee rum for home as a souvenir.

Vicky Chand, the affable founder of Dark Knight, told me over a dram, “The response to Infamous has been overwhelming. We’re still keeping it small-batch to retain quality, but expansion plans are definitely brewing.”

The distillery’s use of fresh, mineral-rich river water and the region’s pristine weather offer the perfect canvas for whisky aging. “We may be off the radar for now,” Chand adds, “but it won’t be long before Northeast whiskies hold their own in the Indian and even international markets.”

Souvenirs That Tell a Story

• Don’t leave without picking up a bottle of Infamous—its bold character and striking design make it a gift worthy of your shelf.
• Handwoven Naga shawls, each tribe with its distinct pattern, ideal as a wrap or a wall accent.
• Tribal jewelry made from beads, bones, and brass—rustic, sustainable, and deeply symbolic.
• Bamboo and cane artifacts, from baskets to lampshades, crafted by local artisans.
• Smoked pork or dried bamboo shoot, vacuum-packed and available at select markets in Kohima.
• Locally grown wild Naga chillies, both fresh and in pickled form, for those who like their food fiery.

Why Go Slow?

Because Nagaland isn’t about sightseeing—it’s about seeing, feeling, and connecting. It’s about learning to savour again—whether it’s a bite of Naga stew, a verse of war history, or a sip of whisky with stories steeped in rainwater and rebellion.

So, take that flight. Take your time. Let Nagaland linger.

The post Where Time Sleeps: A Slow Journey Through Nagaland appeared first on Indian Food Freak.

A spicy, robust pickle made with garlic and potent red chilli from Nagaland, this pickle will add the good kind of heat to your palate As an introvert, I tend to avoid stepping into spaces that are traditionally marked as belonging to the ‘family’ – for example the kitchen, the dining area, the family room, etc. But all of that…