After having been sent a vacuum fluorescent display (VFD) based clock for a review, [Anthony Francis-Jones] took the opportunity to explain how these types of displays work.

Although VFDs are generally praised for their very pleasant appearance, they’re also relatively low-power compared to the similar cathode ray tubes. The tungsten wire cathode with its oxide coating produces the electrons whenever the relatively low supply voltage is applied, with a positively charged grid between it and the phosphors on the anode side inducing the accelerating force.

Although a few different digit control configurations exist, all VFDs follow this basic layout. The reason why they’re also called ‘cold cathode’ displays is because the cathode doesn’t heat up nearly as hot as those of a typical vacuum tube, at a mere 650 °C. Since this temperature is confined to the very fine cathode mesh, this is not noticeable outside of the glass envelope.

While LCDs and OLED displays have basically eradicated the VFD market, these phosphor-based displays still readily beat out LCDs when it comes to viewing angles, lack of polarization filter, brightness and low temperature performance, as LC displays become extremely sluggish in cold weather. Perhaps their biggest flaw is the need for a vacuum to work, inside very much breakable glass, as this is usually how VFDs die.

Have you heard the saying “the problem is the solution”? It seems to originate in the permaculture movement, but it can apply equally well to electronics. Take the problem [shiura] had: a Casio Mini CM-602 that had let out the magic smoke. The solution was a twofer: rebuild the Casio into a modern number cruncher with Reverse Polish Notation (RPN), and save the Vacuum Fluorescent Display (VFD) for a gorgeous WiFi clock.

[shiura]’s write-up includes a helpful guide for reverse engineering the pins on this sort of VFD, if you don’t happen to have the same model calculator (or VFD tube) they’re working with. If you’ve done this sort of thing, you know what to expect: power it up and kill power to the pins, one by one, to map out which segments or characters go out, thereby identifying the anodes and grid electrodes. The cathodes had already been ID’d from looking at the PCB. After that it’s just a matter of wiring the VFD to an ESP32 via a transistor array to get the voltages right, and voila! Clock. The code and case design files for this clock — including an editable .blend — are available via GitHub.

The calculator half of the project is an incredibly elegant hack that relies on the fact that the Casio’s CPU has the same pin pitch as modern micros: 2.54 mm, or 0.1″, so an RP2040 zero can sit in the footprint of the original CPU, scanning the keypads with its GPIO. Then an I2C display is separately wired up to replace the clockified VFD. Perhaps some driver circuitry for the VFD died, or [shiura] salvaged the display before deciding to save the calculator, because otherwise we see no reason why this brain transplant couldn’t be done while keeping the original display. Admittedly having two lines on the display instead of one make the “new” calculator a tad more usable. The code for that is also available on GitHub, and while the readme is in Japanese, machine translations have gotten pretty good and the code is quite readable on its own.

Longtime readers will likely be familiar with [shiura]’s work, with a number of finely crafted clocks having been featured from the Japanese maker, along with vintage pocket computer repairs. Bringing both together makes this twin hack particularly on-brand.