The FOMO was real. For weeks, everyone in the food circuit had been talking about Nisaba, the much awaited new restaurant by Chef Manish Mehrotra. Known globally for path breaking restaurants like Indian Accent and Comorin, both of which put Indian cuisine on the world map, Chef Mehrotra parted ways with his earlier ventures about eighteen months ago. Nisaba was always going to be watched closely and it has easily become one of the most talked about launches in recent times.

Nisaba takes its name from the ancient Sumerian goddess of grains. Located in the buzzing new hub near Sunder Nursery, the 120 plus seater restaurant was already packed for a weekday lunch when I visited, soon after it opened to the public. Most food writers and Delhi’s social elite had already experienced it during a week long pre launch, and the buzz was evident right from the entrance.

After some polite persuasion with the parking attendant, we made our way inside and settled into Nisaba’s minimal yet sophisticated space. The music was understated, letting the lively chatter around the room take over. We began with sparkling wine and browsed through the menu, which is largely à la carte, closer in spirit to Comorin than the tasting menus of Indian Accent.
In a brief conversation, Chef Mehrotra shared a thought that resonated. He believes diners today find it difficult to sit through three hour meals focused only on food. With no theatrical performances or gimmicks, the menu reflects how people prefer to eat now. Simple, engaging, and flexible.

What stood out immediately was Chef Mehrotra’s presence on the floor. He visited almost every table, either carrying dishes himself or stopping to take feedback. Despite being an equal partner in the restaurant, his humility remains unchanged. It was no surprise to see diners frequently rising from their seats to request a photograph.
“The food here is not modern Indian or progressive,” he said. “It is food for today’s generation.” With strong influences from Indian street food, we began with Dal Moradabadi served with mini samosas at Rs 550. Frankly, this dish alone could have sustained our entire meal. Perfectly balanced, deeply comforting, and paired with crisp samosas that used mashed potato instead of chopped filling, it was exceptional. Some combinations simply work, and this was one of them.

The Lucknow white matar chaat, also priced at Rs 550, followed. It reminded me of Fateh ki Kachori, with a thinner, crisper matthi topped generously with tikki matar chaat. Familiar yet elevated, it tasted even better than expected.

Among vegetarian starters, we tried the mushroom chops with mushroom makhani sauce and mushroom achaar at Rs 900, and a new age paneer pakoda priced at Rs 975. The mushroom chops were rich and satisfying. The paneer pakoda, while well executed, did not quite grow on us.

From the non vegetarian section, the tiger prawns cooked in dry shrimp butter and served with Goan poee bread at Rs 1475 delivered bold flavours. The use of dry shrimp makes this dish intense, so it may not suit those who prefer milder seafood. We also ordered butter chicken as a starter at Rs 1050. Thick, smoked makhani sauce coated tender boneless chicken, paired with crisp onion rings that added texture and balance.

A personal favourite followed. Chef Mehrotra’s classic Belgian pork ribs at Rs 1300, paired with sweet mango chunda, remain as memorable as ever. It is a dish I never miss at Indian Accent, and it continues to impress.

By the time mains arrived, we were already comfortably full. Still, the Zaveri Bazaar tadka dal at Rs 875, fragrant with hing and served with ajwaini roti, was hard to resist. The kadhai potato with jakhiya seeds and crisp fried potato bites at Rs 650 delivered rustic flavours with finesse.

The pit roasted pineapple curry at Rs 925, served with set dosa and rice, was another standout. Each vegetarian dish was a masterclass in balance and creativity. When vegetarian food appeals equally to committed non vegetarians, it speaks volumes about the chef’s craft.

Among the non vegetarian mains, the Motihari mutton with hing kachori at Rs 1525 impressed with its depth of flavour and beautifully cooked meat. If I had to choose just one main course to return for, this would be it. The baked Amritsari river sole at Rs 1175 surprised us with a topping of fine pudina boondi that added both crunch and freshness. It was served with mishrikand, a sweet textured ingredient that was new to me and added a pleasant contrast.

Dessert was non negotiable. The house made potato chips with chashni miso vanilla ice cream at Rs 650 was playful and addictive. The baked rasmalai with nolen gur makhana at Rs 700 was comforting without being heavy. My clear favourite was the dhoda tart with pecan ice cream at Rs 750. None of the desserts tried too hard, yet each one delivered.

You may come to Nisaba for the food and find it easy to navigate a thoughtfully curated forty dish menu. But you will return for the warmth of the service, the chef’s quiet humility, and the calm, inviting ambience. Nisaba has arrived, and Delhi has a new winner on its hands.

Nisaba, Address: Humayun World Heritage Site Museum, Nizamuddin, National Zoological Park, Sundar Nagar, New Delhi | Phone: 9810906091

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Last evening, we celebrated our daughter’s 18th birthday at Vicoli, a recently opened European restaurant. The name, which means alley in Italian, is reflected thoughtfully in the restaurant’s design. A long, alley style entrance leads into a spacious setting with high ceilings, a prominent bar, well appointed interiors and an attractive terrace dining area.

I came to know about Vicoli through a post by a friend on social media. A quick call secured our reservation, and when I mentioned the special occasion, the team requested a few photographs, which I shared in advance. The gesture was executed seamlessly. When my daughter saw the photographs placed on the table, it created a memorable and touching moment with priceless expressions on her face.

Keeping in mind our family’s preference, we largely ordered vegetarian dishes. The meal began with the cream cheese wonton, avocado lime toast and the Gouda fondue. The wonton was crisp and well balanced, complemented nicely by a mango habanero sauce. The avocado lime toast was satisfactory, though a crisper bread would have enhanced the dish. The Gouda fondue worked well as a sharing option, accompanied by broccoli, potato wedges, olives, mushrooms and crostini, making it engaging without being overly heavy.

The prawns pil pil stood out, served in a rich chilli butter sauce that was excellent. The sauce was so flavourful that it paired equally well with the pizza crusts. The Neapolitan style margherita pizza and the spicy vodka rigatoni were both well executed. The sauce in the rigatoni was particularly noteworthy, though the pasta could have benefited from being slightly more al dente.

The team graciously offered a complimentary cake to mark the occasion, which was appreciated.

Overall, Vicoli offers courteous service, a pleasant ambience, good music and competent food. With some improvement in their breads, the experience could be even better. It is certainly a restaurant we would be happy to revisit.

Address: Vicoli, 8th Floor, Global Foyer Mall, Sector 43, Golf course road, Gurgaon| Phone: 8448444267

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We were driving back from the market in Delhi when hunger struck. I had heard that Pendulo near Qutub Minar serves Mexican and Indian flavours curated by Chef Megha Kohli, formerly of Lavash by Saby which once stood at the same location, and Chef Noah Barnes of Tabula and Miss Margarita. I walked in knowing only the cuisine. The team informed us that, for now, they serve a set course menu priced at seven thousand for non vegetarian and six thousand for vegetarian. The ala carte menu will take a little more time. Since we arrived early, getting a table was easy though both the main chefs were travelling out of country.

The interiors are quite striking. Lamps shaped like Mexican agave, playful signages on the walls, jars of spices placed on the table, dim lights, a live sitar player and a well stocked bar give the space a romantic and slightly dramatic mood. For a place that focuses strongly on food, a touch more lighting would help diners appreciate the plates better.

The service team is well trained and explained the concept of Pendulo with confidence. Each dish carries both Indian and Mexican influences, and a small pendulum sketch on the menu shows which way the dish leans.

We began with a palate cleansing drink made with corn, Oaxacan cheese and jaggery. It was surprisingly refreshing. The second course felt like a nachos and papad combination served with a range of dips. The dips moved from guacamole to spicy adobo, smoked salsa and a foamy pico de gallo. It paired well with the only cocktail I ordered, a mezcal based Fuego Kokum.

The next dish was a Mexican street food classic called elotes built around grilled corn. The seasoning is what truly lifted it. Tajin, bhaang seed salt, garlic salt and a squeeze of lemon. Three pieces of corn in a twelve course menu may sound a lot, but they were delicious enough to overlook that thought.

This is when I saw a familiar tall figure walking in. Sahil Baweja, the owner of Pendulo, had stepped in to check if everything was alright. I had met him once almost a decade ago during a very formal introduction. This time I requested him to join us for a bit. His educational background is remarkable. I cannot think of many restaurateurs in India who have graduated from INSEAD in France, one of the finest business schools in the world, and then chosen to build a restaurant here. A bold choice in every way. In conversation, I learnt about his other ventures including Chica Loca and Potions where his partner is Sunny Leone.

The food continued to impress. The tuna served in a tomato shorba infused with tigers milk was flavourful, though I would have preferred a slightly thicker cut of tuna. The crab tostada was a delight. They prepare it in reverse and every element deserves a repeat.

The menu may seem expensive at first glance, but the moment the apple wood smoked lobster tail arrived, the pricing felt justified. Then came Maharashtrian thecha and chicken stuffed inside a bharwan chilli. The gentle sweetness of jaggery to soften the heat was a clever touch.

After a lemon based palate cleanser, we were served tacos. One with mutton birria and the other with Coorg style pandi pulled pork. Hunger and curiosity both worked in my favour and I polished them off with full attention.

If you still have space, the final savoury course is a comforting plate of mole sauce served with a small portion of rice and Awadhi lamb. The meal ends on a playful note with jalebi churros.

Pendulo is ideal for a special night when you want to sit back, relax and let the kitchen take over the decisions. If you enjoy slow dining and thoughtful flavours, you will appreciate this. I only hope they introduce a wine paired menu soon.

Address: Pendulo, 1st Floor, Ambawatta 1, Mehrauli, Near Qutub Minar, New Delhi | Phone: 8800346565

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These days, there’s no dearth of restaurants, and most of them not only look and feel the same, but their menus are so interchangeable that you could swap one with another and few would notice. Matram, a new entrant in regional Indian cuisine, stands apart. From its traditional aesthetic to a menu that genuinely travels from Kashmir to Kanyakumari it is refreshingly different.

Located on an independent plot next to a mall, the impressive frontage with stone elephants and water fountains makes you pause and take notice. Step inside, and the interiors charm you instantly. Intricate detailing on the walls and ceilings, and a bright blue ceiling mimicking a clear sky on one side, give the space an uplifting energy and a pleasant, open feel.

It was their first lunch service (they had only started with dinner the night before) so it’s understandable that the staff needs time to become more fluent with the menu and to stock the refrigerators with adequate soft drinks. But those are minor glitches. What matters is that Matram makes a sincere and enthusiastic attempt to woo the discerning diner.

We began with crisp nadru (lotus root) fritters served with a trio of dips: bhaang chutney, pineapple chutney, and green apple chutney. A welcome change from the usual mint chutney. But what had my full attention was the tender coconut chilly fry, a standout dish made with the flesh of tender coconut cooked in its own water, finished in a spicy sauce. It’s healthy, addictive, and unlike anything I’ve had elsewhere. Chef Suresh Singh Fartyal, originally from the northern hills, proudly shared that he has launched restaurants across almost every Indian state, and this particular dish is his own invention. I admire the spirit of innovation.

Then came a medley of dishes, including the dohra kebab, a seekh that layers chicken at the base and mutton on top. It’s not commonly found, though I felt it could benefit from a bit more seasoning. The grilled tiger prawns, flambéed with rum on the table stole the show. Perfectly marinated, beautifully cooked, and packed with flavour.

I won’t go into detail about the other starters we tried like mutton pepper fry, Tangra chicken, ghee roast chicken, gunpowder podi idli etc which were all decent enough to hold their own in most restaurants, but somewhat overshadowed by Matram’s signature creations.

From the mains, my favourites were the Bengali kosha mangsho and the Kashmiri morels pulao. Both were so flavourful that while others asked for raita, I preferred to savour them as they were.

Dessert was a mixed bag. The black rice kheer from the Northeast was best ignored (I’ve had far better), but the gulab jamun cheesecake was delicious. The team also went out of their way to serve us green tea on request, which was a thoughtful touch.

Matram is a much-needed addition to the NCR dining scene. I only hope that its Dwarka location doesn’t become a limitation to the success it richly deserves.

Matram, Reliance Mall, Plot No 1, adjacent to Mayfair Restro Bar, Sector 13, Dwarka, New Delhi, Delhi, 110078

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I’ve often found myself fretting over the steep pricing of dishes across most restaurants in Gurgaon. It feels like everyone’s serving fine-dine fare, and for regular diners like me, it really hits the pocket. Whatever happened to those simple, sit-down restaurants (not talking street food carts) that served fresh, reasonably priced food you could enjoy regularly? Japanese cuisine, especially, tends to be priced through the roof given the premium ingredients.

That was until I discovered Kioki, an izakaya-style diner at 32nd Avenue, Gurgaon, offering small, sensibly priced plates.

The interiors are relaxed and reminded me of my visits to Japan—no-frills spaces drawing a local crowd for informal meals and drinks. When I met Chef Vikram Khatri, my first question was about the lamb chops. At Rs 800 for two New Zealand chops—especially at a premium location like 32nd Avenue—it felt refreshingly affordable. He smiled and said he’d rather serve fresh food and sell more, than freeze items and overcharge a few guests. Judging by the packed tables on a weekday, his philosophy is clearly working.

We started with a complimentary amuse-bouche: eggplant fritters in a soy-based broth. Light, airy, and umami-rich—it set the tone for what was to come.

The Scottish salmon carpaccio-style sashimi—cut slightly thicker—came dressed with jalapeños, leek chimichurri, and a citrus soy. My vegetarian wife enjoyed the same preparation done with tofu just as much as we relished the salmon.

But it wasn’t just the classics that impressed us. Chef Vikram’s inventive touches stole the show. Strips of nori fried in rice flour made for an addictive chakhna when paired with a spicy edamame dip. Equally good were the crispy rice bites—pan-fried sushi rice squares topped with tuna and salmon. A touch of wasabi took them to another level.

No Japanese meal is complete without sushi—the true test of a chef’s skill. At Kioki, the prawn tempura and yasai green California rolls were both excellent. I especially appreciated the toasted sesame seeds on top, giving the rice a subtle crunch.

From the robata/yakitori section, we picked the tare-glazed chicken skewers. These are Japan’s version of our seekh kebabs—smoky, juicy, and packed with umami. The garlic soy and mustard-glazed lamb chops, too, were perfectly done.

If there was one letdown, it was the miso black cod. Though it’s traditionally sweet, this version leaned too far into the sweetness for my taste.

For dessert, we had the matcha crème caramel. I’m not a matcha enthusiast, but this version had just a light dusting, offset by torched orange segments that cut through the bitterness. Delicious. Don’t leave without trying the nama chocolate—silky like ganache, served with soy caramel and sake-poached apple on the side.

Kioki has restored my faith that good dining doesn’t always have to burn a hole in your wallet. While the meal isn’t cheap, it’s far more accessible than most Japanese restaurants in the city. Chef Vikram Khatri’s vision shines—and so does young Sankalp, our server that evening, who impressed us with his warmth and menu knowledge.

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There are restaurants that serve good food, and then there are restaurants that craft experiences. The newly opened XO and Mi at Le Meridien New Delhi confidently falls in the latter category. Nestled on a higher floor of the iconic hotel, this Asian dining destination offers not just a menu of well-executed dishes, but an enviable view that sweeps across Lutyens’ Delhi and frames the striking silhouette of the new Parliament building.

The restaurant itself is thoughtfully laid out—a long, elegant space with a contemporary lounge section to one side and a private dining room (PDR) that shares the same stunning views on the other, making it well-suited for everything from date nights to discreet business lunches. The ambiance is urban and polished, with floor-to-ceiling glass that turns the cityscape into a moving mural by day and a glimmering tapestry by night.

The menu is a contemporary take on familiar Asian staples—with nods to Thailand, Japan, and China—presented with finesse and balance. The meal commenced on a comforting note with their Chicken Tom Kha Soup. Silky, aromatic, and enriched with coconut milk, the soup was a masterclass in restraint—fragrant with lemongrass and kaffir lime but never overpowering, with small chicken chunks that soaked up every nuanced note.

From the sushi bar, the Crunchy Asparagus Roll was a textural delight—crisp on the outside with a warm, clean bite inside, making it a fine vegetarian offering. In contrast, the Salmon and Avocado Roll leaned into richness, with buttery slices of fish wrapped around perfectly seasoned rice, punctuated by creamy avocado and a whisper of quality wasabi.

Dim sum lovers will appreciate the craftsmanship on display. The Prawns and Chives Dumplings arrived in delicate, translucent wrappers, their interiors juicy and flavourful. The Asparagus and Cheese Dumplings, meanwhile, showcased a playful East-meets-West pairing, the creamy cheese adding a lushness that offset the vegetal crunch of asparagus.

Among the mains, the Thai Ginger Chicken was the clear standout—tender chicken strips sautéed in a light soy-ginger glaze, accentuated with fresh julienned ginger that added brightness and warmth to every bite. It paired exceptionally well with the Miso Wok Greens, a vibrant medley of seasonal vegetables tossed with just enough miso to lend umami depth without masking their natural freshness.

Service at XO and Mi reflects the high standards one expects from a property like Le Meridien—attentive, informed, and courteous without being intrusive. The staff is well-versed with the menu and happy to guide diners based on dietary preferences or curiosity.

In a city teeming with Asian eateries, XO and Mi distinguishes itself through its panoramic setting, polished menu, and consistently well-executed dishes. Whether you’re entertaining guests, celebrating an occasion, or simply indulging in a quiet dinner with a view, this is one table you’ll want to reserve ahead of time.

Must-tries: Chicken Tom Kha soup, Crunchy Asparagus Sushi, Prawns and Chives Dim Sum, Thai Ginger Chicken.
View Worth Dining For: Lutyens Delhi and the new Parliament at dusk

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