If you grow your own marijuana plants for recreational or medicinal use — or if you’d like to start — consider cloning cannabis instead of growing from seed.

Cloning is an easy way to preserve a plant’s growth and production genetics from one generation to the next. You’ll have to start your grow the normal way, but, after it gets going, you’ll never have to buy seeds again.

In this article, the cannabis experts at Honest Marijuana tell you everything you need to know about this unique growing method.

What Is Cloning Cannabis?

Cloning is the process of cutting off a piece of a plant in its flowering stage, replanting the cut piece, and nurturing that sprout until it grows on its own.

Scientists call this cutting-and-replanting action cloning because it creates an exact copy of the original plant (known as the daughter and mother respectively).

This may not seem like a big deal, but the daughter plant will have identical genes and growing characteristics as the mother.

So, if you clone a mother plant that produces lots of flowers with high levels of the cannabinoid you’re after, chances are high that the daughter plant will, too — all without having to spend money and time starting from seed.

What’s more, cloning cannabis is drastically different from growing a new plant from seed because the seed itself contains slightly different genetics than the mother plant from which it came. Sorry, but that’s just the way plant biology works.

For example, if you take a seed from a mother plant that produces lots of flowers with high levels of the cannabinoid you’re after, put it in a pot of soil, and grow it to maturity hoping to get the same traits in the new plant, you might be disappointed.

The next generation may produce lots of flowers, but tiny genetic variations may reduce the concentration of the cannabinoid you’re after. If you continue harvesting seeds generation after generation, eventually, all the traits you enjoyed in the original plant will change.

Cloning cannabis, on the other hand, preserves the genetics, growing characteristics, and plant traits from one generation to the next.

How To Get Started Cloning Cannabis

Choose The Right Plant

Not all strains of cannabis make good subjects for cloning.

In fact, not all plants within the same strain make good subjects for cloning.

So, how do you go about finding the right mother plant to cut?

Here’s the bottom line: Choose the plant with the right combination of characteristics to maximize your bud yield.

Yes, the strain is important as it applies to general growing characteristics and the effects you hope to achieve with the finished product (i.e., recreational or medicinal).

With cloning cannabis, however, it’s more important to find an individual plant within the strain you choose that demonstrates a specific set of traits.

We recommend cloning cannabis from a plant that:

• Grows quickly and vigorously in the vegetative stage
• Grows quickly and vigorously in the early part of the flowering stage
• Grows lots of stems and bud sites
• Grows to medium height
• Is not of the autoflowering variety

Why do we recommend these traits?

Because plants that grow slowly often take a long time to restart, re-veg, and get going again after you clip off a piece for cloning. That’s why we like to clone plants that grow quickly in the vegetative and flowering stages.

Similarly, you want to choose a plant that grows lots of stems and bud sites with as little outside interference as possible. Why? Because, really, that’s the whole point of cloning cannabis — to get as many flowers as possible from a single plant.

When you find a plant that grows lots of stems and bud sites, that trait will transfer to all the clones cut from the original plant and give you the high yield you’re looking for.

The last thing to consider is the height of the original plant. You don’t want a mother plant that is too short (because it will have a hard time restarting), nor do you want one that is too tall (because the daughter may be even taller).

For optimum growth and yield, choose a medium-height plant that fits with the other characteristics on the list above.

And, as we mentioned, never try to clone an autoflowering strain. These types of cannabis plants are not affected by light exposure so you cannot force them to revegetate.

For example, let’s say you want to clone a high-CBD/low-THC strain, like Harlequin, and you germinate five seeds.

Watch for a plant or plants that exhibit the characteristics we mentioned above — fast, vigorous growth in the vegetative stage and early part of the flowering stage, lots of stems and bud sites, medium height, and is not of the autoflowering variety.

Keep in mind that some plants will have these characteristics and some won’t.

You may only get one or two plants that fit the bill, and, from those, you may only take one or two clippings. But those will turn into brand new plants that you didn’t have before.

Now that we’ve discussed how to choose the right plant, let’s dive into the particulars of cloning cannabis.

Cloning Cannabis Option #1

Supplies

• Razorblade, scalpel, or sharp scissors
• Rubbing alcohol
• Glass of water (properly pH-balanced if possible)
• Plastic bag
• Long-term growing medium
• Grow lights

Directions

1. At about three weeks into the flowering stage — 28 days into the 12/12 bloom cycle (that’s 12 hours of light, 12 hours of dark) — choose your best female plant.
2. Sterilize your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol.
3. Select a branch low on the plant with two or three nodes (avoid woody branches).
4. Find a spot about ¼ of an inch below a node.
5. Cut into the branch at a 45-degree angle below the node.
6. Place the cutting in a cup of water so that the liquid covers at least an inch of the stem.
7. Cover the cup with a plastic bag to retain moisture (make sure the bag isn’t airtight).
8. Change the water every three days.
9. Transplant the clone into the long-term growing medium when the roots are at least one inch long. Some growers wait until the roots are six inches long. This takes more time but doesn’t shock the plant as much when you transport the new growth to its final growing space. If you don’t want to wait that long but you still want a modicum of shock prevention, try transplanting when the roots are three inches long.
10. Nurture the clones back to the vegetative state by exposing the new growth to the same light/dark schedule you’d use for a regular plant in the vegetative state (e.g., 18/6, 20/4, or even 24/0).
11. Maintain this re-veg process until the clones branch profusely and their leaves return to normal growth and appearance (about 30 days from taking the cuttings).
12. Continue growing the clones as you would a regular pot plant from seed.

Cloning Cannabis Option #2

Supplies

• Razorblade, scalpel, or sharp scissors
• Rubbing alcohol
• Rooting compound gel or powder
• Rooting cube
• Long-term growing medium
• Grow lights

Directions

1. At about three weeks into the flowering stage — 28 days into the 12/12 bloom cycle (that’s 12 hours of light, 12 hours of dark) — choose your best female plant.
2. Sterilize your cutting tool with rubbing alcohol.
3. Select a branch low on the plant with two or three nodes (avoid woody branches).
4. Find a spot about ¼ of an inch below a node.
5. Cut into the branch at a 45-degree angle below the node.
6. Remove the bottom leaves from the cutting.
7. Dip the stem in rooting compound.
8. Poke a hole in the rooting cube with a pencil.
9. Place the clone in the rooting cube.
10. Keep the rooting cube moist. If you’re using a plastic tray, maintain about ¼-inch of water at the bottom.
11. After a few weeks, you’ll notice roots pushing through the bottom of the rooting cube.
12. Transplant everything (rooting cube and all) into the long-term growing medium.
13. Nurture the clones back to the vegetative state by exposing the new growth to the same light schedule you’d use for a regular plant in the vegetative state (e.g., 18/6, 20/4, or even 24/0).
14. Maintain this re-veg process until the clones branch profusely and their leaves return to normal growth and appearance (about 30 days from taking the cuttings).
15. Continue growing the clones as you would a regular pot plant from seed.

Should You Try Cloning Cannabis?

If you always buy your bud at the corner dispensary and leave the growing to someone else, it’s probably not a good idea to try cloning cannabis your first time out of the gate.

Instead, cultivate a plant or two all the way through to the end first so you have some idea of what’s involved in the entire process.

Once you’ve gone from seed to smoke sesh with your own grow operation at least once, you’ll be better prepared to take on the more advanced task of cloning cannabis.

On the other hand, if you’ve grown at least one crop of sinsemilla to completion, you should absolutely try cloning cannabis.

As we discussed in this article, the process does require a bit more time, effort, and knowledge than raising plants from seed, but all that extra work will be well worth it when you’ve got piles of ganja safely tucked away for a rainy day.

For more information on all things cannabis and to check out our 100% all-natural marijuana products, visit HonestMarijuana.com today.

The post Cloning Cannabis: A Complete How-To-Guide appeared first on Honest Marijuana.

If you’re curious about cannabis seeds — particularly autoflower vs. feminized — then you’ve come to the right place.

Here at Honest Marijuana, we’ve been growing everyone’s favorite plant for a loooong time, and we’ve pretty much done and seen it all. As a result, we have a unique perspective on what it takes to nurture both autoflowering and feminized seeds to maturity.

In this article, then, we’ll tell you everything you need to know to understand the difference between autoflower vs. feminized seeds.

Autoflower Vs. Feminized: The Definitions

Autoflowering Seeds

To start our deep dive into autoflower vs. feminized seeds, let’s take a step back and look at two important variables: photoperiod-dependent plants and cannabis ruderalis. Doing so will help you understand autoflowering seeds better.

Photoperiod-Dependent Seeds

Photoperiod-dependent seeds produce plants whose flowering point is determined by the length of time they’re exposed to light.

This really isn’t anything new — they’re your classic indica, sativa, and hybrid strains with names even the newest of noobs is probably familiar with (like Blue Dream, Sour Diesel, and Thin Mint Girl Scout Cookies).

You may have been cultivating or using flowers from these plants for years. Now, you just know a bit more about how they grow: They flower in response to the amount of light they get.

With the basics of regular seeds in mind, we’d like to introduce you to the cannabis strain that made autoflowering seeds possible: cannabis ruderalis.

Cannabis Ruderalis

Cannabis ruderalis is a relative of the indicas and sativas that you can find on the shelf at your local dispensary. But three things set it apart from those more common species:

• Ruderalis is considered feral, which means that it grows in the wild without human care
• Ruderalis has a very low THC count
• Ruderalis will flower at a certain number of days regardless of the amount of light it gets

Cannabis growers of yore noticed this last attribute and thought it would be great to cross ruderalis with domesticated strains to produce seeds with the best properties of both worlds (i.e., higher THC count and photoperiod-independence).

That’s where autoflowering seeds come in.

Autoflowering seeds do not rely on the ratio of light to dark hours (the photoperiod) to switch from vegetative growth to flowering growth. Instead, their switch depends on age (i.e., number of days).

What that means for the average grower is that, with autoflowering seeds and strains, they don’t have to worry about varying the amount of light the plants get like they do with photoperiodic seeds.

So, while this variable does sound like the perfect solution to an age-old problem, it does come with a tradeoff.

The mix of genetics that produced autoflowering seeds (e.g., cannabis ruderalis and photoperiodic strains) did improve THC count, but the potency is still nowhere near that of the regular indicas and sativas.

Feminized Seeds

Understanding the difference between autoflower vs. feminized seeds starts with understanding the difference between male and female seeds.

Normal cannabis seeds have a 50% chance of producing a male plant and a 50% chance of producing a female plant. That’s just the way that plant biology works.

The thing is, there’s no way to tell just by looking at them which sex of plant any given seed will produce.

Why is that a problem for ganja growers? Three reasons:

• Male plants don’t produce flowers (the part of the plant that contains most of the cannabinoids)
• Male plants pollinate female plants in their vicinity (resulting in fewer and smaller buds containing more seeds)
• Male preflowers develop first and fast

So, a male plant growing in the midst of several female plants can drastically reduce — and ruin — the number of buds those female plants will produce. That’s the absolute opposite of what growers want.

That’s also why it’s so important to get rid of male plants as soon as possible.

Wouldn’t it be nice if there were a way to ensure that the seed you plant will produce a female plant rather than a male plant? There is: feminized seeds!

Feminized cannabis seeds are engineered to contain only the female genes (XX). As a result, they will only and always grow into a female plant.

This is good news for growers because it increases the odds of getting a female plant from 50% to around 99.9%. We’ll take those odds!

When you plant feminized seeds, it’s pretty much a sure thing that the result will be a female plant with seedless buds.

And, really, that’s the holy grail of ganja growers everywhere.

Summary

Autoflowering seeds do not rely on the ratio of light to dark hours (the photoperiod) to switch from vegetative growth to flowering growth. Instead, their switch depends on age (i.e., number of days).

Feminized seeds only contain the female genes (XX) and will only and always (to within a 99.9% certainty) grow into a female plant.

Autoflower Vs. Feminized: The Differences

1) Autoflowering Seeds Can Be Male Or Female

The main difference between autoflower vs. feminized seeds is that the autoflowering seeds can produce either male or female plants.

That makes autoflowering seeds more akin to regular seeds in that there’s a 50% chance the seed you plant will produce a male plant and a 50% chance that it will produce a female plant.

And there’s no way to tell which is which other than to plant them and wait for them to sprout.

If you choose to plant autoflowering seeds, keep a sharp eye out for male plants and cull them from the herd as soon as possible.

If you get rid of the male plants before they are able to pollinate the females, you won’t have to worry that the female plants will get pollinated and produce seed — which reduces the number and potency of their flowers (a less-than-desirable result).

2) Autoflowering Seeds Produce Smaller Harvests

Although the size of plants grown from autoflowering seeds makes them great for growing in tight spaces, their shortness of stature means they produce smaller harvests.

That may not sound like a bad thing. But, if you want to get as many consumable buds off of each plant, you’d be better off with regular seeds or feminized seeds.

These varieties grow much larger than autoflowering plants and, therefore, have more room to grow lots and lots of flowers.

3) Feminized Seeds Have Higher Potency

Because they lack the cannabis ruderalis genes, plants grown from feminized seeds have a much higher potency than the autoflowering variety.

During the flowering stage, plants grown from feminized seeds direct their energy away from the stems and leaves and into the flowers.

This extra available metabolic energy — that otherwise would have gone into producing seeds — also contributes to an increase in cannabinoid, terpene, and flavonoid production.

More THC means a heavier psychedelic experience. More CBD means a more potent medicinal experience. And more terpenes and flavonoids mean a better tasting, better smelling final product.

4) Feminized Seeds Take Longer To Reach Maturity

Depending on the type of cannabis you plant and the environmental conditions in which it’s grown, autoflowering plants reach maturity after 75 days (2.5 months)

Plants grown from feminized seeds, on the other hand, can take anywhere from 120 days to 240 days (4-8 months) to reach maturity.

Autoflower Vs. Feminized: Quality Matters

Wherever you fall on the autoflower vs. feminized choice, it all comes down to two important variables:

• The quality of the strain from which those seeds came
• Whether or not the plant that produces the bud you smoke was grown organically

Why are these important?

Because low-quality plants — called mids and regs by those in the know — will produce a low-quality final product. That low-quality final product will diminish any psychoactive or medicinal effects you experience.

When you’re growing your own weed with an eye toward cooking up a batch of edibles, rolling a J, or packing a bowl, always use autoflower or feminized seeds from the highest-quality plants you can get your hands on.

The seeds can be from any strain you choose, as long as they came from a healthy, well-producing parent.

If you don’t abide by this rule of thumb and opt, instead, for whatever seeds you can get your hands on, the end result may leave you dissatisfied and downhearted.

Then, there’s the matter of whether or not the bud was grown organically.

Again, it doesn’t matter if you choose autoflower vs. feminized. A large portion of the final experience comes down to how the plant was treated while it was growing.

With a high-quality, organic strain, like those grown at Honest Marijuana, you’ll need less bud to experience the effects you’re after — a little high-quality ganja goes a long way — and you’ll be protecting yourself against harmful fertilizers, heavy metals, and pesticides.

Remember all cannabis products come from the cannabis plant in one way or another.

If the grower used chemicals to treat the plant, traces of those chemicals may remain in whatever product you take.

You can avoid this issue entirely and experience cannabis the way it was meant to be with the best products on the planet from Honest Marijuana.

If you live in Colorado, find some Honest Marijuana and discover what the purest marijuana experience on the plant feels like (Hint: It’s like nothing you’ve ever felt before).

For more information on all things cannabis and to check out our 100% all-natural marijuana products, visit HonestMarijuana.com today.

The post Autoflowering Vs. Feminized Seeds: What’s The Difference? appeared first on Honest Marijuana.

Cannabis deficiencies are a very real part of raising weed — whether you do it on your own or as part of a commercial grow operation.

Whether you’re a brand new gardener, or you’ve been digging in the dirt for a long time, nutrient deficiencies are one of the most common problems you’ll encounter on the way to homegrown bud.

Often, the solution is fairly simple. But, sometimes, keeping your pot plants happy and healthy takes a bit more effort.

We’re here to help!

In this article, the experts at Honest Marijuana discuss how to recognize and fix cannabis deficiencies for a perfect crop of Mary Jane every time.

Common Cannabis Deficiencies

1) Boron Deficiency

Source: RoyalQueenSeeds.com

Signs Of Boron Deficiency

Here are the major signs of boron deficiency to look for in your plants:

• Abnormal leaf tips
• Thick leaf tips
• Rough stems
• Hollow stems
• Chlorosis (yellowing) of new leaves

Boron plays a significant role in cell growth, so you’ll see this cannabis deficiency express itself at the growing tip of both roots and shoots.

General symptoms of this nutrient deficit include stunting and distortion of the growing tip that can lead to tip death, brittle foliage, and yellowing of lower leaf tips.

How To Fix Boron Deficiency

For best results, start your seeds in a high-quality soil that already contains boron.

If you begin to see symptoms of this cannabis deficiency, try these easy treatments:

• Stop using reverse osmosis (RO) or heavily-filtered water
• Adjust the pH of your soil
• Use a humidifier in your grow room
• Ensure the plants have adequate moisture

In most cases, the number one cause of boron deficiency in cannabis plants is a soil pH above 6.5. Adjust the pH to between 6.0 and 6.5 for best results and then continue watering with tap water instead of filtered water.

2) Calcium Deficiency

Source: RoyalQueenSeeds.com

Signs Of Calcium Deficiency

Here are the major signs of calcium deficiency to look for in your plants:

• Parachute-shaped leaves
• Malformed leaf tips
• Dying leaf tips
• Death of root tips
• Yellowing at the leaf edges
• Yellow or brown spots
• Dark veins

Calcium is an essential component of both cell walls and cell membranes. If your plant suffers from this cannabis deficiency, new leaves and root tips will show unusual growth, discoloration, and curling.

How To Fix Calcium Deficiency

Unlike some nutrient issues, the remedy for calcium deficiency isn’t to add more calcium to the mix.

Instead, focus on these four fixes first:

• Irrigation — increase the amount of water you give to your plant
• Temperature — increase the temperature in your grow room
• pH — raise the pH of the soil to between 6.0 and 6.5
• Humidity and airflow — add fans to your grow environment to prevent stagnant air

If all of these factors seem to be at optimum levels, you can try adding calcium to your soil with products such as lime (for low-pH soils), gypsum, or bone meal.

Keep in mind when adding products to your soil that they may also contain other nutrients besides just calcium.

3) Copper Deficiency

Source: GrowWeedEasy.com

Signs Of Copper Deficiency

Here are the major signs of copper deficiency to look for in your plants:

• Leaves turn dark with blue or purple undertones
• Tips and edges of leaves turn bright yellow or white
• Leaves develop a shiny or metallic sheen
• Leaves may feel stiff and start turning under
• Buds do not ripen or grow very slowly

In most cases, leaves directly under the light will show signs of copper deficiency first. In other cases, some strains develop copper deficiency during the flowering stage when their leaves will develop a dark purple or reddish hue.

How To Fix Copper Deficiency

Like most of the other cannabis deficiencies on this list, the first steps you should take to fix a lack of copper isn’t to add this nutrient to the soil.

Instead, focus on correcting these issues first:

• Adjust soil pH to the correct range (around 6.5)
• Keep plants hydrated with tap water (filtered water has very low levels of copper)
• Don’t overwater (doing so can lead to root problems)

If you’re unsure where to start with these fixes, we recommend adjusting the pH before the other two. Copper tends to get locked into the soil at certain pH levels, and this will prevent your pot plants from absorbing the nutrient properly

4) Magnesium Deficiency

Source: BigBudsMag.com

Signs Of Magnesium Deficiency

Here are the major signs of magnesium deficiency to look for in your plants:

• Leaf tips and edges look brown or burnt
• Leaf tips die
• Leaves turn a pale color
• Lower leaves and older leaves appear damaged
• Leaves develop a yellow color between the veins
• Veins stay green
• Old leaves drop off
• Leaves develop spotty, speckled, or patchy patterns
• Plant or leaves develop twisted growth
• Leaves curl under
• Leaves curl up
• Leaves wither or droop
• Plant withers or sags

These symptoms will start in the lower leaves and eventually work their way up to the middle and upper part of the plant. If left untreated, the growing shoots of the plant will go from pale green to white, and the petioles and stems will turn purple.

How To Fix Magnesium Deficiency

To fix magnesium deficiency in your cannabis plant(s), you’ll need to add nutrients to the soil. Take a trip to your local garden center and purchase one of the following:

• Garden lime
• Worm castings
• Dolomite lime
• Magnesium sulfate
• Epsom salts

Then, follow the instructions on the package to get started. We recommend trying Epsom salts first because it’s relatively cheap, easy to find, water-soluble, and super easy to work with.

Here’s how to fix your soil, cure magnesium deficiency, and put your pot plants back on track.

1. Add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to 1 gallon of water.
2. Hydrate your plant as usual.
3. When that gallon runs out, add ¾ teaspoon to 1 gallon of water.
4. Hydrate as usual.
5. When that gallon runs out, add ½ teaspoon to 1 gallon of water.
6. Hydrate as usual.
7. Continue to reduce the amount of Epsom salts by ¼ teaspoon per 1 gallon of water.

It’s also essential to continue monitoring the pH of the soil throughout this process. The nutrients in the soil and the pH of the soil are the two biggest culprits when it comes to magnesium deficiency.

Keep track of both and your pot plants will be fine.

5) Nitrogen Deficiency

Source: EdRosenthal.com

Signs Of Nitrogen Deficiency

Here are the major signs of nitrogen deficiency to look for in your plants:

• Larger leaves turn from pale-green to yellow and white
• Leaf stems and smaller leaves turn reddish or purplish
• Veins and petioles become reddish
• Stems acquire vertical purplish stripes
• Vegetation bursts into forced flowering
• Chlorosis (yellowing) spreads from lower parts to the top of the plant
• Leaves curl and shed
• Tissue develops necrosis
• Yield volumes considerably decrease
• Plants fade prematurely and die

Early signs of this nutrient deficiency start with a slight discoloration (lighter than usual) in more mature leaves. As the plant grows, it appears pale and thin due to insufficient branching and will eventually fade and die.

How To Fix Nitrogen Deficiency

As cannabis deficiencies go, lack of nitrogen in the soil is extremely common. The nice thing is, it’s very easy to put nitrogen back where it belongs to keep your pot plants going strong.

Work organic matter into your soil to add nitrogen, to improve overall soil structure, and to help retain moisture longer.

Good sources of organic matter that contain nitrogen include:

• Compost
• Animal manure
• Other nitrogen-fixing plants (e.g., legumes)
• Horn meal
• Bone meal
• Fish meal
• Blood meal
• Nettle slag
• Groundnut husks
• Coco peat (coir pith)

If you plan on adding manure to your soil, keep in mind that fertilizer from different animals contains different concentrations of nitrogen. Do a bit of research to find the best option for your plants.

Avoid Cannabis Deficiencies With High-Quality Weed

If you grow your own weed, you’re going to have to watch out for cannabis deficiencies of all kinds.

But, you can avoid this DIY pitfall completely — and experience marijuana the way it was meant to be — by buying high-quality weed at your local dispensary.

And we’re not talking just any Mary Jane. We’re talking the fresh, organically grown ganja gold from Honest Marijuana.

Sure, you could save some coin by buying regs or mids, but they may suffer from cannabis deficiencies — and, thereby, deliver a less-than-stellar experience.

Instead, whenever possible, always buy the best beasters — or headies if you can swing it — to ensure that you get what you pay for.

Plus, with a high-quality, organic strain like those grown at Honest Marijuana, you’ll need less weed to experience the effects you’re after. A toke or two from our high-quality bud goes a long way.

With Honest Marijuana, you’ll get the freshest, tastiest, highest-quality strain possible and avoid the stress of cannabis deficiencies that can harsh your buzz.

For more information on all things cannabis and to check out our 100% all-natural marijuana products, visit HonestMarijuana.com today.

The post How To Recognize And Fix Cannabis Deficiencies appeared first on Honest Marijuana.

Learning how to put out a joint and save it for later is an essential skill for all cannaenthusiasts. In fact, it’s right up there with the likes of packing a bowl, using a grinder, and cleaning a dab rig.

But, how, exactly, should you extinguish your joints for best effect? And how can you save the leftovers for later?

In this article, the all-things-cannabis experts at Honest Marijuana answer those questions and walk you step-by-step through the process of learning how to put out a joint.

How To Put Out A Joint

1) Leaving

The easiest way to learn how to put out a joint is just to leave it sitting in an ashtray.

Before you say, “Great!” and click away, this isn’t the absolute best way to extinguish your J because the bud inside will continue to burn just a little bit. It won’t burn a lot because there won’t be enough airflow to really ignite, but it will still smolder before going out completely.

Try this method to see if it works (and how you feel about it). Just be sure to ALWAYS leave the smoldering joint on or in an inflammable container like an ashtray, a metal can, a plate, or a glass cup.

2) Blowing

This is one of our favorite ways of learning how to put out a joint for the simple reason that it’s so completely counterintuitive. You wouldn’t think that it’d work, but it does!

Here’s how to do it: Blow into the joint for 10 seconds. That’s it!

The air blowing out the burning end of the joint isolates the cherry from the fuel (the ground plant matter), makes it burn faster, and, basically, causes the tip to consume itself.

3) Stubbing

Stubbing is, perhaps, the most familiar way of learning how to put out a joint.

It’s similar to the technique employed by cigarette smokers: press the tip of the joint against a flat, hard surface.

The only difference is that you should be gentler with a joint because the paper is thinner and more liable to break. If you stub too hard, you’ll squash the skunk stick and ruin its shape.

4) Flicking

The goal of flicking is to physically separate the burning cherry from the rest of the joint. Without the burning plant matter, the J will go out, and you can store it for later.

To flick correctly, hold the joint gently in one hand and flick the tip toward the ashtray with the bottom of your lighter, a finger on the opposite hand (try using your fingernail), or some other hard object.

5) Grazing

In terms of how to put out a joint, grazing is similar to stubbing, but with a lot less force.

To graze your joint out, position it horizontally and then gently rub the burning cherry (left to right or up and down) against the walls of the ashtray.

Doing this will cause the burning plant matter to fall away, extinguish the joint, and allow you to save it for later.

6) Cutting

A surefire way to extinguish your burning Js so you can save them for later is to cut the cherry off the tip with a pair of sharp scissors or a knife.

You can either hold the joint in one hand and snip or cut with the other hand. Or, you can place the joint on a plate or ashtray and perform a bit of simple surgery to separate the burning plant matter from the rest of the roll.

How To Save A Joint For Later

Once you’ve learned how to put out a joint, the next step is saving it for later. But you shouldn’t just leave your doobies lying around exposed to the elements for days on end. That’s a recipe for ruination.

The best way to preserve a half-smoked doobie for later is to store it correctly.

Effective Storage Methods

Glass

A glass canning jar with a lid is perfect for storing half-smoked Js. Mason jars are impermeable to oxygen, aren’t affected by residual humidity, and are inert to temperature fluctuations.

In addition, glass doesn’t secrete any chemical compounds that will kill the fresh aroma of the terpenes (e.g., humulene and myrcene) in your joint.

Unfortunately, most clear mason jars won’t protect your ganja from becoming dry and brittle due to sunlight or heat damage. That’s why opaque or dark, tinted glass jars are always a good option.

If you can’t find dark glass jars, just use clear glass and store it in a closet or cabinet away from residual heat sources.

Titanium

If you can’t find a glass container with a lid, an airtight container made of titanium is your next best option to preserve your half-smoked joints.

And the container doesn’t have to be huge. A simple titanium tube with a lid — a cigar– or cigarillo-sized container, for example — is sufficient to store the leftovers once you’ve learned how to put out a joint.

You don’t need a lot of room to store multiple joints because you’re going to come back and finish that sucker off today or tomorrow, right?

Resealable Cans

Another good option for long- or short-term storage after you learn how to put out a joint is a resealable can.

Honest Marijuana, for example, sells its loose bud in metal containers that are about the size of tuna cans. The idea of preserving food and other perishables in metal cans has been around for more than 200 years, so you know it works.

HMJ’s cans even come with a resealable plastic lid that locks in the freshness and keeps the bud (or the joint) inside from going bad. You can use empty cans to store all kinds of pot-related material — from half-smoked joints to leftover wax and shatter.

Avoid Plastic Bags

Whenever you can, avoid storing your joint — extinguished or otherwise — in a plastic bag.

Plastic is positively one of the worst ways to save a J for later. The most notorious culprit is the plastic baggie.

Plastic baggies do absolutely nothing to keep light, air, heat, cold, or moisture out of your marijuana. You’d be better off just leaving the joint sitting on the windowsill and saving the plastic baggie for your munchie mix or olive loaf sandwich.

In addition, plastic is a horrible material for keeping pot fresh because it has a static charge that can pull precious trichomes from the plant matter onto the plastic and create a fine, sticky, powdery mess that you’ll never be able to get out of the bag back into the J.

As we mentioned earlier, if you’re going to blaze the rest of the joint in a couple hours, you’ll be fine just leaving the remains lying in the ashtray. No need to toss it in a plastic bag.

If you’re going to wake and bake before breakfast and may need to put the joint out halfway through, plan to store the remains in a glass jar, titanium container, or resealable can.

Learning How To Put Out A Joint Starts With What You Put In

When you’re learning how to put out a joint, make it easier on yourself by thinking about what you put in the joint at the start. Whether you buy a J at the local dispensary or roll your own at home, always use the best bud whenever possible.

Anything less than the best, and you run the risk of having a bad trip. No one wants that.

Plus, the best weed burns better and smoother and will go out easier when it’s time to toke and run.

And what exactly is the best?

It’s fresh, high-quality, organically-grown cannabis, like the ganja gold we grow at Honest Marijuana.

Sure, you could save some dough by buying regs or mids, but they’re going to deliver an unsatisfying experience that will ruin the moment.

Instead, always buy the best beasters whenever possible— or, better yet, headies if you can swing it — to make the whole joint-smoking experience better.

Plus, with a high-quality, organic strain like those grown at Honest Marijuana, you’ll need less weed to experience the effects you’re after. A toke or two from high-quality bud goes a long way.

Then, you can put out the joint and save it for later.

To get the most out of the experience, always choose a high-quality, sustainably-sourced, organically-grown cannabis bud for inside your joint.

Not sure how to go about finding said high-quality, sustainably-sourced, organically-grown cannabis? Just ask for Honest Marijuana.

At our Rocky-Mountain-based grow facility, we employ world-class organic growing methodologies to provide cannabis connoisseurs with the purest marijuana experience on the planet.

We grow our plants the way Mother Nature intended: in organic soil without chemicals or pesticides. We even hand-trim our plants so that they’re organic from the ground up.

With Honest Marijuana, you’re guaranteed to get the freshest, tastiest, highest-quality strain possible with which to learn how to put out a joint once you’ve had enough.

Not only does bud from HMJ make all your smoking, dabbing, and edible experiences infinitely better, but it also means that the joints you roll are better, tastier, and well worth the effort.

So, don’t settle for an inferior strain. Get the best strains on the planet — the Honest Marijuana strains — learn how to put out a joint correctly, and experience cannabis the way it was meant to be.

For more information on all things cannabis and to check out our 100% all-natural marijuana products, visit HonestMarijuana.com today.

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