If you grow cannabis, you need to know about Thrips Parvispinus, also known as tobacco thrips. This emerging tropical pest has already been causing headaches in horticultural crops in Spain since 2024, and although there are not yet massive reports in cannabis, its extremely polyphagous nature (it feeds on many different plant species), together with rising global temperatures, means it is only a matter of time before it reaches your plants if you do not take preventive measures.

In this article we explain everything you need to know about Thrips Parvispinus: when and how it arrived in Spain, which crops it attacks, how to identify it, the damage it causes and, above all, how to protect your cannabis crop using an integrated pest management and biological control approach. Shall we begin?

What is Thrips Parvispinus and why should you be concerned?

Thrips Parvispinus is a thrips of tropical origin that feeds on leaves, flowers and fruits of a very wide range of plants. In recent years it has ceased to be a problem limited to ornamentals and has become a serious threat in greenhouse horticultural crops, especially pepper, where it causes scarring on the fruit.

Although pepper belongs to the Solanaceae family and cannabis to the Cannabaceae family (together with hops), this insect is polyphagous: it can easily move from one crop to another if conditions are suitable. This means that if you like growing peppers, tropical ornamentals or any other host plant near your marijuana crop, the risk of colonisation is real.

Which crops does it attack and why is cannabis at risk?

The “star” host in Spain is greenhouse pepper, but Thrips Parvispinus has also been reported on papaya, potato, numerous ornamentals and other horticultural crops. Its polyphagous nature means that it does not discriminate between plant families: if it finds a favourable environment and plant tissue to feed on, it will colonise the plant.

In the case of cannabis, the main risk points are:

Tender tissues: Young shoots and developing leaves are a feast for thrips larvae, which feed gregariously (in groups) and can distort growth.

Flowers and calyxes: Adults and larvae attack reproductive structures, causing flower abortion, necrosis and scarring on bracts. In a bud-producing crop, this results in loss of aesthetic quality, reduced weight and general plant stress.

Proximity to reservoirs: If you grow near pepper greenhouses, ornamental nurseries or areas with tropical vegetation, your cannabis plants can act as an alternative or secondary host, facilitating pest spread.

Damage and symptoms: how to recognise a Thrips Parvispinus attack

Damage caused by T. Parvispinus is mainly due to direct feeding. Unlike other thrips, current Spanish technical literature does not confirm significant virus transmission in horticultural crops (although some media have mentioned isolated cases). However, at Alchimia we are clear that, as with other thrips, it can act as a vector for certain latent viruses such as HLVd, Beet curly top virus (BCTV), Tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) and others, especially when working with cuttings. If the insect feeds on an infected plant and then on a healthy one, transmission can occur.

Visible symptoms on cannabis would be similar to those seen in other crops:

On leaves: A characteristic silvery or bronzed appearance appears on the upper surface, with yellowish areas and deformed edges. This is because larvae and adults scrape the leaf surface to feed on sap, leaving empty cells that reflect light differently.

On flowers: You may observe flower abortion (flowers that do not develop properly), necrosis (dead tissue with a brown-black colour) and deformities. In flowering crops like cannabis, this is particularly worrying because it directly affects final yield.

Excrement: As an additional clue, look for small black dots (insect excrement) on the underside of leaves and in silvery areas. This is a general indicator of thrips presence.

Field identification: how can you tell if it is Thrips Parvispinus?

Accurate identification of this species requires a good-quality hand lens or even a laboratory microscope, but there are practical features that can help you in the field:

Adults: Very small (around 1 mm), dark brown in colour. The wings have a pale base with the rest darker, and the legs and antennae are mostly yellow. If you observe these details with a 20–40× hand lens, you already have solid indications.

Larvae: Yellowish in colour and found in a gregarious manner (grouped together) on young shoots and the underside of leaves. This tendency to cluster is a distinctive feature compared to other thrips that may be more solitary.

Where to look: Focus your inspection on the underside of tender leaves, flowers, calyxes, petioles and sheltered areas of the plant. Remember that the pupa (the transition phase between larva and adult) is often found off the plant, in the soil or substrate, which complicates control.

Biological cycle and spread: why is it so difficult to control?

Thrips Parvispinus completes its life cycle very quickly in warm climates. Its optimal development occurs between 25–30 °C – the ideal temperature for cannabis crops – allowing it to produce several generations per season, especially in greenhouses where conditions are stable.

The complete cycle includes: egg → larva 1 → larva 2 → prepupa → pupa → adult. The pupal stage, which occurs in the soil or substrate, is key to understanding why traditional chemical control fails: if you only treat the aerial part of the plant, the pupae in the substrate will survive and give rise to new adults.

Presence peaks: In greenhouses, from spring to October, although it may continue through mild winters. Outdoors, activity is concentrated in the warm months.

Dispersion: Thrips actively move between nearby plants, are easily transported on nursery stock, plant material (cuttings) and contaminated tools, and can make short flights aided by air currents. This makes clean entry and quarantine critical measures.

Integrated management for cannabis: prevention is the key

Here is the crucial part: traditional chemical control is NOT effective against Thrips Parvispinus. Why? Because of its biology (fast cycle, refuge on the underside of leaves and in the substrate, pupation off the plant) and because broad-spectrum insecticides destroy the beneficial fauna that naturally controls the pest, creating a rebound effect.

Phytosanitary authorities, research centres (IFAPA, RAIF) and biological control companies (Koppert, Biobest) agree: the approach must be preventive, biological and based on hygiene and exclusion from the very beginning.

Below we detail the four pillars of integrated management adapted to cannabis:

1) Monitoring and thresholds: know your enemy

You cannot control what you do not know is there. Early monitoring is your best ally:

Sticky traps: Install blue sticky strips (yellow ones also work if you already use them for other pests). At a minimum, place 1–2 traps per 20 m² of crop, with higher density near entrances, doors and known hotspots. Check captures at least twice a week in greenhouses and indoor grows. Blue traps are especially attractive to thrips and will allow you to detect the first adults before the population explodes.

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Visual sampling: Inspect the underside of young leaves and calyxes with a 20–40× hand lens. Look for grouped yellowish larvae, brown adults and black dots of excrement. Spend a few minutes each time you enter the grow; with practice, you will be able to detect problems before they are visible to the naked eye.

2) Cultural practices and hygiene: the foundation

Many T. Parvispinus infestations begin due to carelessness when introducing material or poor hygiene. Strengthen these points:

Clean entry to the grow: Establish a 10–14 day quarantine for any cutting or plant entering your grow space. During this time, inspect visually and with traps. Disinfect tools, clothing and footwear before entering. If you grow in a greenhouse or indoor space, consider installing insect-proof nets on vents and access points.

Constant sanitation: Immediately remove heavily affected shoots, severely damaged leaves and plant residues from pruning. Bag this material and remove it from the grow area; do not leave it in piles nearby, as it can act as a reservoir.

Substrate management: Avoid substrate cracking or accumulation of plant debris on the surface. Thrips pupate in the soil, so a clean, well-managed substrate hinders their cycle. Consider using soil-dwelling predators (see below) to attack pupae.

Physical structure: In greenhouses and indoor grows, install insect-proof filters on all vents and openings. This drastically reduces adult entry from outside. There are also insect-proof filters specifically designed for grow tents and extractors.

3) Biological control: the backbone of management

This is where you can really make a difference. Biological control is based on releasing natural predators into your crop that feed on thrips at different stages. The key is to act preventively (before damage appears) and to combine several natural enemies to cover all stages.

Foliar predators (for larvae and adults on the plant):

Orius laevigatus: This anthocorid bug is a voracious predator of adult and larval thrips. It works especially well in flowering crops because it also feeds on pollen. In cannabis, you may need bank or trap plants (for example, interplanted hot peppers) to maintain Orius populations even when thrips are scarce. Early releases are recommended, either as shock releases (single massive releases) or inoculative releases (small repeated releases).

Predatory mites: Amblyseius swirskii, A. montdorensis and Neoseiulus cucumeris are your best allies for preventive control. They feed on thrips larvae (as well as other mites and whitefly eggs). Release them preventively from transplant or early in the cycle, and reinforce in hotspots when you detect increases. These mites establish well under typical cannabis temperature and humidity conditions and are compatible with most bio-insecticides.

Other predators under evaluation: Franklinothrips vespiformis (a thrips predator of other thrips) and some products such as Entomite-M are under trial or used locally. Check with your biological control supplier for the latest options.

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4) Bio-insecticides and compatible products: the last resort

If, despite all the above, a high-population hotspot appears, you can resort to contact bio-insecticides or entomopathogenic fungi, always within regulations and prioritising products compatible with beneficial fauna.

Potassium soaps and vegetable oils: Products such as Oleatbio by TRABE (potassium soap) act by contact, dehydrating juvenile and adult stages. They have low impact on beneficials if applied locally and with respect for reapplication intervals. Apply during low light hours (dawn or dusk) and focus on hotspots rather than the entire crop.

Rotation and localisation: Never apply the same product continuously or across the entire surface. Rotate active ingredients, apply only to detected hotspots and respect safety intervals before releasing beneficials or harvesting.

Quick checklist: protect your crop step by step

Here is a summary of the whole process in a list of concrete actions:

Before planting:

• 10–14 day quarantine for any cutting or plant entering your grow.
• Install insect-proof netting on vents and access points (greenhouse/indoor).
• Prepare hygiene points (disinfection of tools, footwear and clothing).

At the start of the cycle (prevention):

• Release preventive predatory mites (swirskii, montdorensis, cucumeris) at transplant or during the first weeks.
• Place blue sticky traps (5–10 per 100 m²) and record captures by area.
• If growing in a greenhouse with flowering plants or banker plants, introduce Orius laevigatus.

During cultivation (early detection):

• Visual inspection with a hand lens at least twice a week: underside of young leaves, flowers and calyxes.
• Map hotspots: note where activity is detected to focus reinforcements.
• If populations rise: reinforce predators in the affected area.

In the event of high-population hotspots (action):

• Sanitise heavily damaged shoots or buds: bag and remove from the grow.
• Localised applications of compatible bio-insecticides (potassium soap, oils, Beauveria).
• Reinforce soil predators (Dalotia) if pupae are an issue.

End of cycle / harvest:

• Thorough cleaning of the grow space: remove all plant residues.
• Sanitary break before the next cycle (minimum 1–2 weeks without plants).
• Disinfect structures, trays, pots and tools.

The post Thrips Parvispinus (Tobacco Thrips): Complete Guide for Cannabis Cultivation appeared first on Alchimia blog.

Have you ever wondered how to preserve Psilocybe cubensis for long periods without losing potency or degrading over time? If you’ve been around the mycological scene for a while, you probably already know that traditional drying works… but it’s not always the most refined option. Today we want to talk to you about a technique that plays in a different league: freeze-drying.

It’s a word that sounds like laboratories, cutting-edge technology and almost futuristic processes, but one that’s increasingly attracting interest among those seeking optimal preservation of hallucinogenic mushrooms. Is it really worth it? What makes it so special? Get comfortable—we’ll explain everything calmly and without beating around the bush.

What is freeze-drying and why is it so special?

Freeze-drying is an advanced dehydration method that removes water from a product without subjecting it to high temperatures. Unlike conventional drying, the water here goes directly from a solid to a gaseous state through a physical process known as sublimation.

And what does this mean in practice? Something very interesting: the internal structure of the material is preserved almost intact. In the case of mushrooms, this means maintaining their shape, texture, active compounds and chemical composition with surprising fidelity.

In the worlds of food, pharmaceuticals and biotechnology, freeze-drying has been used for decades to preserve delicate products. So it’s not a passing trend, but a proven technique that’s now starting to attract attention in the more demanding mycological sphere.

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Applied to Psilocybe cubensis: what makes it different?

Psilocybe cubensis contains sensitive compounds such as psilocybin and psilocin, which can degrade due to humidity, oxygen, heat or the passage of time. This is where freeze-drying really shines.

By removing virtually all the water and doing so at low temperatures, the degradation of these compounds is drastically reduced. The result is a much more stable material, less vulnerable to mould or oxidation, with potency that lasts much longer.

In addition, freeze-dried mushrooms are usually extremely light and fragile, which also makes them easier to store under controlled conditions. All of this translates into high-end preservation, designed for those who don’t just want them to “last”, but want them to last well.

How mushrooms are freeze-dried (in broad terms)

Without going into technical procedures or operational details, we can say that mushroom freeze-drying is based on three key phases: freezing, pressure reduction and progressive removal of water in the form of vapour.

First, the material is completely frozen. Then it is subjected to a controlled vacuum environment that allows the ice to sublimate without passing through a liquid state. This point is crucial, as it prevents the mushroom tissue from collapsing or degrading.

Advantages over traditional drying

Air-drying or using a dehydrator is simple, accessible and effective—no one disputes that. But it also has its limits. Freeze-drying offers a series of clear advantages for those seeking the highest level of preservation. One of the most obvious is long-term stability. By reducing moisture to minimal levels, microbial growth is slowed and chemical degradation processes are reduced.

Another key point is potency preservation. Many users agree that freeze-dried mushrooms retain their effects better over time, something especially valued when they’re stored for months. And no less important is product fidelity. Aroma, structure and composition are preserved far better than with other methods, resulting in a more consistent and predictable experience.

Finally, it’s worth remembering that even with excellent preservation, subsequent storage still matters. Protecting the material from light, oxygen and moisture remains essential to keep it in optimal condition.

If simplicity and short-term use are your thing, a good drying method will probably be more than enough. But if you like to go a step further and explore advanced techniques, freeze-drying is undoubtedly a fascinating option.

Cutting-edge technology applied to an organism that has accompanied humanity for centuries in its inner exploration. Quite something.

Because when it comes to preserving quality, sometimes it’s worth going for the best. Happy harvest!

The post Freeze-dried magic mushrooms: How to dry hallucinogenic mushrooms at home with a freeze dryer appeared first on Alchimia blog.

For some time now, Cali plate hash has established itself as a benchmark in the world of high-end hashish. Its name immediately evokes California, premium quality and a certain idea of modern know-how applied to cannabis resin. However, behind this attractive label lie realities that are not always well known. What exactly is Cali plate hash, and why does it attract so much interest among enthusiasts?

A term inspired by Californian cannabis culture

The term Cali is now much more than a simple geographical reference. In the cannabis world, it symbolises a culture of excellence, forged through decades of innovation, advanced genetic selection and increasingly sophisticated production techniques. Cali plate hash fits into this dynamic, adopting the aesthetic and qualitative codes associated with the Californian scene.

However, this is not an official designation nor a guarantee of origin. A Cali plate hash can be produced outside the United States, but it aims to reproduce a high quality standard, both visually and in terms of aroma and sensory experience.

Hash Cali Plate: a recognisable and carefully crafted presentation

Cali plate hash stands out first and foremost for its format. It is generally presented in the form of flat, thin plates, regular in shape, easy to handle and cut. This presentation is reminiscent of premium resin slabs and contributes to its high-end image.
Visually, the resin displays shades ranging from light brown to darker brown, sometimes with golden highlights. The surface may appear slightly shiny, a sign of a high concentration of trichomes and well-controlled pressing.
Most Cali plate hashes are obtained through dry sifting, a traditional method that mechanically separates the trichomes from the plant material. When carried out precisely and using high-quality flowers, this process results in a clean, rich and highly expressive resin.
Pressing also plays a fundamental role. Performed at low temperature and with controlled pressure, it allows the resin to be compacted without degrading the terpenes. The result is a living hash whose texture evolves with heat and over time.

Texture and aromatic profile of Cali Plate

To the touch, Cali plate hash is usually malleable and greasy, becoming more flexible with the warmth of the fingers. This texture is highly appreciated by connoisseurs, as it indicates a well-preserved and properly worked resin.

Aromatically, these hashes stand out for their notable intensity. The most common profiles recall very popular modern genetics, with earthy and kush notes, sometimes creamy, sweet, fruity or slightly gassy. Terpene richness is one of the main factors explaining the enthusiasm surrounding this type of product.

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Thanks to a high concentration of trichomes, Cali plate hash is usually potent. Its effects are often described as deep and enveloping, with a gradual onset followed by marked body relaxation. Depending on the genetics used and the level of resin maturation, the experience may be more cerebral or more physical, but in most cases it is aimed at a public with some degree of experience.

A sometimes misused term that reflects the evolution of the market

It is important to maintain a critical perspective when it comes to this designation. The success of the term Cali has led to its overuse, and not all hashes sold as Cali plate truly meet the expected standards. The lack of an official framework means that quality can vary considerably.
A true premium hash is recognised above all by its natural aroma, its lively texture, the finesse of its flavours and the quality of its burn. The name alone is not enough to assess a product.
Cali plate hash perfectly illustrates the evolution of the hashish market. Consumers are increasingly seeking better-crafted, more aromatic products with greater transparency regarding their production methods. This trend brings the world of hash closer to that of modern extractions, without losing its connection to traditional methods.

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When we read today about psilocybin being used to treat depression or about MDMA as a therapy for post-traumatic stress, we often assume we are witnessing recent breakthroughs born in high-budget clinical laboratories. Yet much of this psychedelic renaissance has a far more intimate, almost domestic origin: a small ranch in California where Alexander “Sasha” Shulgin and Ann Shulgin worked for decades as a true alchemical couple, exploring the deepest mechanisms of the human mind. Speaking of the Shulgins in the singular falls short. Sasha brought a prodigious chemical mind; Ann, a deep understanding of the emotional, therapeutic and human world. Together they formed a unique, unrepeatable partnership that united hard science and inner exploration with a coherence that still amazes today.

Sasha and Ann Shulgin were inseparable, even in the research they carried out. SOURCE: open-foundation.org

Alexander and Ann Shulgin: the couple who mapped the human mind

Alexander Shulgin has often been portrayed as a solitary scientist, almost a modern alchemist surrounded by flasks. However, his work cannot be understood without Ann Shulgin, transpersonal therapist, writer and intellectual partner for more than 30 years.

Ann was not a mere observer. She was co-author, analyst and bridge between chemistry and human experience. While Sasha synthesized molecules, Ann helped translate those inner states into psychological, therapeutic and narrative language. Where he saw molecular structures, she saw healing processes, emotional blockages and transformative potential.

Alexander Shulgin: the chemist who listened to molecules

Alexander Shulgin was born in 1925 in Berkeley, in an artistic environment that fostered both creativity and discipline. From an early age he showed an insatiable curiosity to understand how the world worked. It is said that one of his favourite pastimes was spending entire days dismantling objects, not out of mischief, but out of a need to understand.

During World War II he enlisted in the navy, and an experience with a placebo after surgery marked his life: even believing he had received a sedative, he felt real effects. This revealed something crucial to him: the mind has enormous power over perception and experience. Years later, he would identify that moment as the seed of all his later research.

After studying organic chemistry at Berkeley and spending time at Harvard, he joined Dow Chemical, where he developed the profitable insecticide Zectran. That success gave him unusual freedom: to research whatever he wished. And what he wished was to explore compounds capable of interacting directly with consciousness.

Ann Shulgin: the therapeutic voice and the soul of the project

Ann Shulgin, born in 1931, entered Sasha’s life when he had already been researching psychoactive compounds for years. She brought something that was missing: a deeply human and therapeutic perspective. Trained in transpersonal psychotherapy, Ann was especially interested in how altered states of consciousness could help heal trauma, unlock emotions and facilitate processes of self-knowledge.

It was Ann who structured many of the sessions of the famous exploration group, helping to interpret experiences beyond the purely chemical. She was also key in documenting, organising and giving narrative meaning to decades of experimental work, turning data and journals into accessible knowledge.

RIP Ann Shulgin, pioneering psychonaut

The Lafayette ranch: science, therapy and trust

In the 1960s, the couple established their base on a ranch in Lafayette, California. There, Sasha set up a DEA-authorised laboratory, while Ann helped create a safe, structured and respectful space for inner exploration.

In this seemingly simple environment, more than 200 psychoactive compounds were studied. But what was truly revolutionary was not only the number of molecules, but the shared method: progressive dosing, meticulous observation, detailed record-keeping and, above all, deep respect for subjective experience.

The sessions were not recreational. They were conscious, almost ceremonial encounters, where emotions, memories, fears and discoveries were discussed. Ann played an essential role here, helping to integrate the experiences and understand their therapeutic potential.

In psychedelic therapy, many more factors are involved than just the substance itself.

MDMA: when chemistry and empathy go hand in hand

One of the key moments in the Shulgins’ joint work was the rediscovery of MDMA. Although the molecule had been synthesised by Merck in 1912, it was Sasha who revisited it in 1976 and recognised its uniqueness.

MDMA did not produce visions or sensory overload, but something different: empathy, emotional clarity and honest communication. Ann quickly understood its enormous therapeutic potential. Together, they shared it with psychotherapists such as Leo Zeff, who used it in hundreds of sessions with surprising results.

When MDMA was banned in 1985, both regretted the outcome, but they never stopped defending that, when used responsibly and in the right context, it was a psychological tool of incalculable value. Decades later, modern clinical research is proving them right.

PIHKAL and TIHKAL: science written by four hands

In the 1990s, Alexander and Ann Shulgin published two fundamental works: PIHKAL (Phenethylamines I Have Known And Loved) and TIHKAL (Tryptamines I Have Known And Loved).

These books are not simple chemistry manuals. They are the perfect reflection of their collaboration: half autobiography, half scientific treatise. Sasha provided the syntheses, dosages and structures; Ann shaped the human narrative, the couple’s stories, the ethical dilemmas and the emotional dimension of exploration.

The result is a true scientific novel that has inspired generations of researchers, therapists and explorers of consciousness.

A life shared between flasks and personal growth

Beyond the laboratory, the Shulgins lived a simple and deeply connected life. Gardening, walks, endless conversations and a relationship based on absolute trust were the foundation of all their work.

Those who knew them agree that their greatest achievement was not only scientific, but human: demonstrating that research can be carried out with respect, ethics and a love for shared knowledge.

The Shulgins’ legacy: a door that remains open

Today, as universities and hospitals once again investigate substances such as psilocybin, the DMT, LSD or MDMA, it is clear that the path was paved by this extraordinary couple.

Alexander and Ann Shulgin were not seeking fame or revolution. They sought understanding. And by doing so together, they left an immense map for those who today continue to ask what consciousness is and how we can alleviate human suffering responsibly.

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Have you ever wondered what that small, pointy-capped mushroom is that appears in damp meadows in autumn? Today we want to talk to you about Psilocybe semilanceata, one of the most well-known and discussed mushroom species in the world due to its powerful effects and its almost global presence in temperate climates.

What is Psilocybe semilanceata? Main characteristics

Psilocybe semilanceata, also known as the Liberty Cap, is a mushroom from the Psilocybe genus, famous for its potency and for being one of the most emblematic species within the group of psychoactive mushrooms.

It is also one of the most widespread and recognisable species in the world, with an unmistakable appearance that has shaped both its study and its presence in European folklore.

Visual characteristics of Psilocybe semilanceata

This mushroom is recognised by its small size (generally between 2 and 5 cm tall) and by its conical or bell-shaped cap with a characteristic nipple-like protrusion on the top.

The cap shows a colour ranging from yellow-brown to darker brown when wet, becoming paler as it dries.

The stem is thin, flexible and usually has a similar or slightly lighter tone than the cap.

Where does Psilocybe semilanceata grow?

Unlike other psychoactive mushrooms such as Psilocybe Cubensis, which prefer manure, Psilocybe semilanceata fruits mainly in damp meadows and grasslands, especially in areas with grazing livestock. It does not grow directly on dung, but it does benefit from the fertility it brings to the soil.

It is widely distributed throughout Europe, North America and other temperate regions, appearing mainly during autumn.

How much psilocybin does Psilocybe semilanceata actually contain?

If you are already familiar with the world of psychoactive mushrooms, you’ll know that semilanceata has a reputation for being “small but mighty”. And that’s no exaggeration: within the European mycological universe, it is one of the species with the highest relative potency in proportion to its size.

Although the variability of the psilocybin it contains is considerable — depending on climate, maturity or even the specific meadow where it grows — many analyses place its usual levels around 0.3–0.8% dry weight, with exceptional cases exceeding these figures.

7 varieties of mushrooms you should know

A tiny presence… but huge in the European imagination

Hallucinogenic mushrooms have accompanied psychedelic culture for decades and continue to spark interest among naturalists, historians and mycologists. Among the best known in Europe are Amanita Muscaria and Psilocybe Semilanceata.

Its stable presence in the grasslands of the northern hemisphere makes it a true mycological emblem, both for its biology and for the role it has played in the European collective imagination.

When we talk about Psilocybe semilanceata, we are not only referring to a mushroom typical of damp meadows: we are talking about a small cultural icon that has quietly left its mark on European folklore. Its discreet conical cap appears every autumn from Scotland to the Pyrenees, and many believe that behind numerous rural tales lies this tiny mycological traveller.

Legends, forests and “encounters”: From druids to rural tales

In several northern European countries, stories circulate about dancing lights, unexplained laughter in the middle of the night, or “doors” to other planes that only opened on damp afternoons. Coincidence? Perhaps. But the truth is that these narratives fit surprisingly well with the perceptual alterations that this mushroom can produce when someone — often shepherds or foragers — consumed it without really knowing what they had in their hands.

In Atlantic areas, people also spoke of “meadow madness”, a sudden hilarity attributed to mischievous goblins. Today we know that the explanation may have been much closer to the ground… and shaped like a small pointy cap.

There is no direct evidence confirming its use by druids, but many mythologists believe that certain rites described in medieval texts — linked to visions, messages from nature or states of deep introspection — could be related to mushrooms present in Europe, among them semilanceata, which is abundant, recognisable and closely tied to the Celtic landscape.

Over the centuries, this symbolic echo persisted in rural tales: fae beings altering perception, travellers returning “changed” from a walk in the woods, “enchanted” meadows where time seemed to stand still. All of this fits perfectly with the sensations described by those who encounter this mushroom in unexpected contexts.

Ultimately, Psilocybe semilanceata doesn’t just grow in damp pastures: it grows in oral tradition, in stories told by the fire, in the mystique of the European forest. And although today we study it from a more modern and responsible perspective, it’s nice to imagine that these little “liberty caps” have accompanied human creativity for centuries, bringing mystery, wonder and a few stories still waiting to be told.

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Imagine this: you’ve spent months nurturing a batch of premium cannabis clones, hand-selected from a trusted source. They’re vigorous, vibrant, and primed for a bumper harvest. But when flowering kicks in, disaster strikes: the plants stall out, the buds turn into small, sad, airy little balls, and your yields crash by up to 50%. Welcome to the world of Hop Latent Viroid (HpLVd), the invisible destroyer that has become the cannabis grower’s worst nightmare. Often dubbed the “COVID of cannabis”, HpLVd doesn’t just hit hard; it spreads silently through your clones, underscoring why plant health is non-negotiable for any grower.

In this guide, we’ll demystify plant viruses (and viroids like HpLVd) in plain English—think science served with a touch of grow-room wisdom. We’ll trace the stealthy history of HpLVd, highlight its red flags, and arm you with battle-tested strategies to prevent and fight it. Whether you’re a seasoned grower or just dipping your toes into cloning, this is your roadmap to resilient, virus-free crops. Let’s dive in.

Plant viruses 101: Nature’s saboteurs

Before we zoom in on HpLVd, let’s pull back and look at the bigger picture: plant viruses and viroids. These tiny lurkers are the ultimate uninvited guests in your garden, but understanding them is your first line of defence.

Cannabis viruses

At their core, plant viruses are fragments of genetic code—either RNA or DNA—wrapped in a protein coat (or not, in the case of viroids). They’re not alive the way bacteria are; they’re more like rogue software that needs a host computer (your plant’s cells) to run. Once inside, they hijack the cell’s machinery: the plant’s own ribosomes and enzymes are pressed into service to crank out viral copies instead of essential plant proteins. This replication frenzy drains resources, disrupts metabolism, and triggers weird growth patterns.

Think of it like this: a virus sneaks into your plant’s “factory” (the cell nucleus or cytoplasm) through a back door—a pruning wound, an insect bite, or even contaminated tools. It tricks the factory workers (enzymes) into building a viral assembly line, flooding the system until cells burst or start sending distress signals to their neighbours. The result? A cascade of chaos.

Viroids, the category HpLVd belongs to, are even more stripped-down villains: naked loops of RNA with no protein coat, only 250–400 nucleotides long. They’re the minimalist hackers—small enough to slip past defences and replicate using the plant’s nuclear machinery via a “rolling-circle” method, spitting out error-prone copies that evolve on the fly.

Transmission is their superpower. Unlike animal viruses that travel by air or touch, plant viruses rely on vectors:

• Mechanical spread: sap from infected plants on your scissors or hands gets transferred to healthy ones during cloning or trimming.
• Insect messengers: aphids, whiteflies, or leafhoppers sip virus-laden sap and deposit it elsewhere.
• Vegetative betrayal: grafts, cuttings, or clones carry the load directly from the mother plant to the babies.
• Seed surprises: rare, but some viruses travel in pollen or embryos.

Symptoms vary by virus and host, but often include:

• Mosaic patterns: mottled, yellow-green leaves that look like a bad paint job.
• Stunting: dwarfed growth, as if the plant hit a permanent growth plateau.
• Necrosis: dead spots or wilting, the plant’s SOS flare.
• Yield impacts: fewer flowers, smaller fruits, or watered-down potency—devastating for cannabis.

The catch? Many infections lurk asymptomatically, only showing up under stress like heat, drought, or flowering. For growers, that means vigilance: healthy plants fight back better, so balanced nutrition, optimal light, and low-stress environments are your baseline armour. Now, let’s meet the viroid that’s driving the cannabis world crazy.

HpLVd: From hop fields to cannabis chaos—a brief history

Hop Latent Viroid earned its name from humble beginnings in hop yards. Discovered in 1987 in Spain, it first appeared as an innocuous RNA oddity in Humulus lupulus (hop, the cannabis plant’s botanical cousin in the Cannabaceae family). By 1988, surveys in Germany revealed it was infecting 90–100% of European hop cultivars—yet hops largely shrugged it off with mild symptoms, like a modest drop in cone yields (8–37%) or bitter acids (15–50%). Brewers noticed subtler beer flavours from altered terpenes, but there was no industry-wide panic.

Fast-forward to the cannabis boom. HpLVd jumped species around 2017, probably via shared propagation tools or infected germplasm in U.S. facilities. The first rumblings showed up on online forums in 2014, with growers complaining about the “dudding disease”—stunted, brittle plants producing airy buds. By 2019, high-throughput sequencing nailed it: HpLVd was the culprit in California, where a survey by Dark Heart Nursery estimated 90% of operations were contaminated. It then tore through North America, Canada, and beyond, with infection rates averaging 30% across the industry and economic hits nearing $4 billion annually in lost yields and potency.

Why cannabis? Unlike resilient hops, weed is a softer target. HpLVd’s 256-nucleotide circular RNA thrives in cannabis cells, replicating in the nucleolus and clogging up metabolite production. It hits glandular trichomes especially hard, slashing THC by 50–70%, terpenes by up to 40%, and overall vigour. Two variants (Can1 and Can2) have adapted, with mutations like U225A boosting infectivity. It’s pleiotropic—symptoms range from none to full-blown nightmare—making it a shapeshifter in your grow.

Bottom line, HpLVd’s “latent” label is a lie in cannabis: it hides in veg, then explodes in flower, turning premium clones into liabilities.

Spotting the cannabis virus: HpLVd symptoms in your grow

Early detection is your crop’s guardian angel, but HpLVd plays hide-and-seek like a pro. In clones from infected mothers, it often lies dormant until week 4+ of flower, when stress unmasks it. Here’s what to watch for, especially if you run a clone-heavy setup:

• Stunting and structural changes: shorter internodes, more horizontal sprawl than vertical reach, and overall dwarfing—as if the plant were stuck in permanent juvenile mode.
• Brittle stems and leaves: they snap like dry twigs; foliage yellows (chlorosis) or curls unevenly.
• Dudding disaster: the hallmark—buds stay small, loose, and sparse. Trichomes ripen early (amber too soon), resin production tanks, and aromas fade.
• Potency crash: lab tests show cannabinoid drops (THC down 50%+), terpene loss (myrcene oddly elevated, β-caryophyllene down 13–29%), and weaker flavour.

Not all cultivars respond the same way; some coast with few symptoms while others fail en masse. Co-infections (e.g., with other viroids) amplify the damage. Pro tip: scout weekly under magnification—uneven trichome distribution is a screaming red flag. When in doubt, test: RT-PCR on leaf samples from both old and new growth is the gold standard, catching around 30% of silent carriers.

Transmission traps: Why clones are HpLVd’s highway

HpLVd doesn’t fly or float; it’s a full-contact sport. As a viroid, it needs direct sap-to-sap transfer—perfect for clone-heavy operations.

• Clone-borne contagion: the big one. Infected mother plants pass it 100% to cuttings. One sketchy clone in your tray? Boom—your whole batch is toast.
• Tool terrorism: pruners, scalpels, or gloves smeared with sap spread it like wildfire. Recirculating hydro systems or shared reservoirs amplify the problem.
• Human highways: workers touching multiple plants without washing? Instant vector.
• Rare routes: pollen/seed transmission is negligible; no known insect vectors.

In cannabis, where 70%+ of crops start from clones, this transmission chain explains the explosion. A single imported cutting can doom an entire facility. Lesson: plant health starts upstream—vet your sources ruthlessly.

How to prevent it: Protect your clones from day one

Good news: HpLVd is beatable with prevention. Focus on clean inputs and rock-solid hygiene—your clones will thank you.

1. Source smart: ditch untested clones; opt for certified clean stock or start from seed (much lower risk). Quarantine new arrivals for 30 days, testing in week 3 via lab RT-PCR or dot-blot.
2. Sanitise like a surgeon: bleach (5–10% sodium hypochlorite) or Virkon S (2%) on tools—alcohol doesn’t cut it, since it precipitates RNA. Heat-treat blades at 160°C for 10 minutes. Swap PPE between plants; wash hands obsessively.
3. Segment your grow: keep veg and flower separated; use dedicated cloners per batch. Filter water and avoid runoff mixing.
4. Boost resilience: healthy plants fight back via RNA silencing. Dial in balanced nutrients at the right pH, stable temps, and low stress—strong clones slow viral buildup.
5. Test religiously: sample 10–20% of your stock every quarter. Early wins save whole harvests.

These steps cut risk by about 90%—proven in hop yards and cannabis labs alike.

Fighting an outbreak: Damage control when HpLVd hits

Found an infection? Don’t panic—move fast. There’s no silver-bullet antiviral, but here’s your playbook:

• Cull ruthlessly: chop symptomatic plants immediately; burn or bleach waste to kill persistent RNA.
• Rescue team: for salvageable mothers, try meristem-tip culture (micro-propagating tiny <0.5 mm shoot tips) paired with cold (2–4°C for months) or heat therapy (36°C for 2 weeks). This can knock down viral load via mutations but it’s not foolproof—re-infection is a constant threat.
• Facility wash-down: deep-clean everything; use urea or chloropicrin for soil. Restart with verified clean material.
• Long-term R&D: breed resistant cultivars or deploy RNA interference—emerging tools, but not quite ready for your grow room yet.

Recovery hurts yields in the short term, but rebuilds trust in your system. Remember: one clean cycle resets the clock.

Final harvest: Put plant health first for thriving grows

HpLVd isn’t just a viroid—it’s a wake-up call. In an industry hooked on clones for speed and uniformity, its spread drives home why plant health trumps everything. From virus basics to outbreak ops, once you’re armed with the right knowledge, you can grow with confidence, dodge duds, and deliver your best.

At Alchimiaweb, we aim to empower growers by giving them the tools to succeed. Stock up on sterile gear, test kits, or clean genetics today—your next round of clones is waiting. Got HpLVd stories or tips to share? Drop them in the comments. Grow Happiness!

Bibliography

1. 1. Adkar-Purushothama, C. R., Sano, T., & Perreault, J. P. (2023). Hop latent viroid: A hidden threat to the cannabis industry. Viruses, 15(3), 681. https://doi.org/10.3390/v15030681
   2. Punja, Z. K., Collyer, D., Scott, C., Holmes, J., Zhao, Y. Y., Hinz, F., … & Reed, S. (2023). Symptomology, prevalence, and impact of hop latent viroid on greenhouse-grown cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) plants in Canada. Canadian Journal of Plant Pathology, 46(2), 174–197. https://doi.org/10.1080/07060661.2023.2279184
   3. Punja, Z. K., Scott, C., Tso, H. H., Munz, J., & Buirs, L. (2025). Transmission, spread, longevity and management of hop latent viroid, a widespread and destructive pathogen affecting cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) plants in North America. Plants, 14(5), 830. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants14050830
   4. Puchta, H., Ramm, K., & Sänger, H. L. (1988). The molecular structure of 26 S rRNA from Humulus lupulus L. (hops) and the sequence of a viroid-like RNA associated with hop stunt disease. Nucleic Acids Research, 16(9), 4197–4216. https://doi.org/10.1093/nar/16.9.4197
   5. Warren, J. G., Mercado, J., & Grace, D. (2019). Occurrence of hop latent viroid causing disease in Cannabis sativa in California. Plant Disease, 103(10), 2699. https://doi.org/10.1094/PDIS-03-19-0530-PDN
   6. Viruses and Viroids – an overview. (n.d.). In ScienceDirect Topics. Elsevier. Retrieved November 24, 2025, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/viruses-and-viroids
   7. Hop latent viroid in hemp. (n.d.). OSU Extension Service. Oregon State University. Retrieved November 24, 2025, from https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/em-9570-hop-latent-viroid-hemp
   8. Kovalchuk, I., Pellino, M., Rigault, P., van Velzen, R., Bhalerao, R., Clark, J., … & Kovalchuk, A. (2020). The Genomics of Cannabis and Its Conservation. Genome Biology and Evolution, 12(3), 292–312. (For general viroid context; referenced in broader reviews)
   9. Hop Latent Viroid: A Guide to Sampling, Testing and Lab Selection. (2024, July 9). Cannabis Business Times. Retrieved November 24, 2025, from https://www.cannabisbusinesstimes.com/disease/cannabis-plant-disease/news/15686586/hop-latent-viroid-a-guide-to-sampling-testing-and-lab-selection
   10. Bektaş, M., Sõmera, M., Faggioli, F., & Pallas, V. (2019). First report of hop latent viroid on marijuana (Cannabis sativa) in California. Plant Disease, 103(10), 2699. https://doi.org/10.1094/PDIS-03-19-0530-PDN

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In cannabis cultivation, achieving truly exceptional harvests doesn’t depend only on large buds or high THC percentages. True quality comes from understanding how the plant responds to its environment and applying techniques that enhance its natural physiology. Among these practices, one stands out for its simplicity and effectiveness: controlled water stress. Far from being a trend, it is a science-backed strategy that allows growers to increase resin production, intensify aromas and enhance the metabolite profile without adding extra products or complicating the grow. In this article, we explore what it is, how it works and how to apply it correctly to take your flowers to the next level.

Although its name may sound harsh, its mechanism is based on a simple principle: when the plant senses that water is scarce, it activates defence mechanisms that increase the production of trichomes and secondary metabolites. This reaction is not exclusive to cannabis. Many aromatic and medicinal crops, such as lavender, rosemary, thyme, sage or even grapevine, respond in a similar way. In all of them, a moderate water deficit enhances aroma, essential oil concentration and, in the case of grapes, sugar levels (alcohol).

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What is controlled water stress?

Controlled water stress is a method applied during the final stage of flowering and consists essentially of temporarily reducing irrigation frequency. The goal is to trigger a mild physiological discomfort that activates metabolic pathways associated with defence. When roots detect reduced water availability, the plant produces abscisic acid (ABA), a hormone that instructs stomata to partially close to prevent moisture loss. This small shift alters the plant’s internal dynamics: photosynthesis decreases slightly, primary processes slow down and activity in secondary pathways increases, including the synthesis of terpenes, flavonoids and cannabinoids.

The result is often visible: greater resin density, more defined aromas and more uniform ripening. But to reach that point, the process must be applied in a controlled way, without pushing the plant into extreme drought.

The science behind water deficit

We now know that this mechanism is supported by scientific research. A study by Caplan et al. (University of Guelph, 2019) applied a water deficit during late flowering and recorded a 12–13% increase in THCA and CBDA, together with a 67% increase in total cannabinoids per cultivated area. These results were especially notable because there was no loss of biomass.

Recent reviews, such as the one published in Horticulturae by Sharma et al. (2025), compile multiple trials showing a clear pattern: mild, late water deficit stimulates secondary metabolite production as long as it is kept within safe limits. However, when stress is excessive or applied too early, the effects can be negative: reduced trichomes, oxidative stress, loss of vigour or greater susceptibility to pathogens. In other words, water stress works — but it requires precision and constant observation.

How to water marijuana plants in soil

How to apply water stress without harming your plants

Choose the right timing

Water stress should only be applied when the flowers are already formed and beginning their ripening phase. For most photoperiod strains, this occurs between the 6th and 8th week of flowering. Applying it earlier may stress the root system, reduce final bud size and make plants more vulnerable to pests like mites, which quickly take advantage of weakened tissues.

Reduce watering progressively

You shouldn’t stop watering abruptly. The correct approach is to slowly space out irrigation: if you water every two days, switch to every three or four; if you water twice a week, reduce to once or one and a half, depending on pot size. What matters is allowing the substrate to dry more than usual, while never letting it dry out completely.

The plant will give clear signs: slightly drooping leaves during the warmest part of the day indicate the right stress level. In contrast, general wilting, soft stems or burnt tips mean the stress is too strong. After watering, the plant should recover within a few hours — this rebound signals proper management.

Apply repeated cycles

Controlled water stress works best when applied in gentle cycles: a period of mild dryness followed by recovery. Typically, this pattern is repeated two or three times during the last weeks of flowering. In fully controlled indoor environments (stable climate, good airflow), some advanced growers leave 10–12 days without watering right before root flushing.

When done correctly, this method produces denser flowers, with less internal moisture and higher trichome concentration.

Expected results

When the process is executed correctly, the changes are noticeable. The increase in trichome production is often the most obvious effect. This increase is not only visual but chemical: greater concentration of essential oils and cannabinoids. The aromatic profile also changes. Volatile terpenes such as myrcene, limonene, pinene or linalool express themselves more intensely. This results in a more pronounced fragrance at harvest and a stronger flavour after curing.

Another clear benefit is the reduced risk of Botrytis. Flowers with lower internal moisture are less likely to develop mould, especially in dense-bud varieties or humid climates.

It’s important to highlight that water stress does not always increase the final yield. That is not its purpose. What it consistently improves is overall quality: more density, more resin, stronger aroma and a much more professional finish.

Precautions and common mistakes

Although the technique is simple, it is not risk-free. The most common mistake is taking drought too far. When the substrate dries out completely, roots can be damaged, leaves may show necrosis and the plant may enter a stress cycle that provides no benefit.

Another mistake is applying it at the wrong moment: during growth, preflowering or when flowers are still small. In these phases, the plant prioritizes basic structures: roots, stems, leaves and calyx formation. Interrupting that process can reduce final yield.

High temperatures can also amplify the damage caused by water deficit. With less water, the plant has a reduced ability to regulate its internal temperature. In warm environments, maintaining correct VPD and strong ventilation is essential.

An interesting ally in these situations is silicon. This element strengthens cell walls, improves tolerance to abiotic stress and reduces vulnerability to pests. At Alchimia, we recommend products such as Biotabs Silicium Flash or Atami B’Cuzz Silic Boost to support this type of technique.

Overwatering cannabis plants

A technique for growers who seek real quality

Controlled water stress is part of precision cultivation, where the goal is not to harvest more but to harvest better. It resembles what happens in viticulture: before harvest, winegrowers prefer dry weather, since excess water dilutes grape aromas and reduces sugar concentration (alcohol). In the same way, a cannabis plant with limited water availability concentrates more resin and terpenes.

Moreover, when combined with complementary techniques such as night-time temperature drop, use of natural biostimulants, VPD control or strategic pruning, water stress acts as a final enhancer that allows the plant to express its full genetic potential. Among the most widely used natural biostimulants are Aptus All-in-One Pellet and C02 Effect Led Nano, valued for supporting metabolic processes without saturating the substrate.

Scientific sources and recommended reading

• Caplan, D., Dixon, M., & Zheng, Y. (2019). Increasing inflorescence dry weight and cannabinoid content in medical cannabis using controlled drought stress. HortScience, 54(5), 964–969.
• Sharma, A., Singh, R., & Kumar, V. (2025). The effects of water-deficit stress on Cannabis sativa L. development and production of secondary metabolites: A review. Horticulturae, 11(6), 646.
• Tanney, C. A. S., Backer, R. G. M., & Smith, D. L. (2021). Cannabis glandular trichomes: A cellular metabolite factory. Frontiers in Plant Science, 12, 721986.
• Kurek, K., et al. (2024). Effects of water and wind stress on phytochemical diversity and insect communities in hemp (Cannabis sativa L.). Plants, 13(3), 474.
• Burke, I. C., et al. (2024). Severe drought significantly reduces floral hemp yield, CBD, and THC concentrations. Scientia Horticulturae, 322, 112015.
• Ahmad, P., et al. (2024). Interaction of water deficit and nanosilicon on Cannabis sativa L.: Growth and cannabinoid response. Physiologia Plantarum, 176(4), e14238.

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After harvest, most cannabis growers focus on traditional drying and curing in jars. However, there is a lesser-known but highly effective method to obtain a purer and smoother smoke: water curing.

This refinement process consists of submerging already trimmed buds in clean water for several days, changing the water daily. In this way, most soluble impurities (chlorophyll, sugars, mineral salts, nutrient residues) responsible for harsh combustion are removed. The result: a smoother herb to smoke, less irritating to the throat and lungs, while preserving all cannabinoids.

Why cure cannabis in water?

Water curing is a post-harvest technique developed as an alternative to classic cannabis curing. Its principle is based on the fact that many substances responsible for the “green” or unpleasant taste are water-soluble. Instead of waiting several weeks for these compounds to naturally degrade inside a jar, the water bath accelerates the process by extracting them directly.

This method is especially useful when the plant was not properly flushed before harvest or when improving flowers that retained a fertilizer taste.

Before performing water curing, keep the following characteristics in mind:

• Process duration: 3 to 10 days.
• Substances removed: chlorophyll, sugars, mineral salts, residual nutrients.
• Cannabinoids: preserved (they are not water-soluble).
• Terpenes: partially lost, especially the most volatile ones.
• Appearance: duller, less aromatic flowers, but with a whiter, more even burn.
• Main advantage: extremely smooth smoke, ideal for sensitive users.
• Drawback: reduced aroma and flavor.
• Caution: dry the flowers thoroughly after the bath to prevent mold.

How to perform proper water curing step by step

1. Harvest and trimming: Once the plants are cut, remove the large leaves and the small resinous leaves if desired.
2. Immersion in water: Place the buds in a clean container filled with water at room temperature (18–24 °C). Use a weight or an inverted lid to keep them fully submerged.
3. Daily water change: Change the water each day to gradually remove dissolved substances. You will often see the water turn cloudy or greenish — a good sign that impurities are being released.
4. Duration: Generally 5 to 7 days is enough, though some extend to 10 days for a “cleaner” result.
5. Drying: After the final day, gently drain the flowers and let them dry in a dark, ventilated, dry place. This step is crucial to avoid mold.
6. Storage: Once fully dry, store the flowers in airtight jars, protected from light and humidity.

Practical tips

• Use very clean or distilled water.
• Do not overload the container: good water circulation improves cleaning.
• Observe the water color: the cloudier it is, the more impurities have been removed.
• The final drying must be slow and well controlled.
• This process is ideal for smoothing out harsh-tasting or poorly flushed herb.

Flavor and effect of water-cured cannabis

Water curing produces noticeably smoother, less irritating smoke because it removes chlorophyll and residues responsible for bitterness. However, this smoothness comes with a loss of aroma: some volatile terpenes dissolve in water, making the smell and flavor more neutral. The flowers therefore lose part of their aromatic appeal, but gain in comfort when smoked or vaporized.

Cannabinoids (THC, CBD, etc.) are not water-soluble, so they remain intact. The effect stays the same, although some users notice the experience feels more direct, as the absence of aromatic terpenes leaves a “purer” sensation without flavor modulation.

Conclusion: smoother smoke but less aromatic

Water curing is a simple, fast and effective technique to obtain a final product of exceptional smoothness. Although it slightly reduces the natural aroma of cannabis, it compensates with clean, light and pleasant smoke. It is especially recommended for users seeking a more comfortable experience or to improve a harvest with an overly aggressive taste.

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The home cultivation of magic mushrooms is becoming increasingly common due to the rise in their consumption. Being an easy, fast and convenient crop, as well as profitable, more and more people are choosing to grow them at home. While it may sound complex at first, with the right instructions and materials it turns into a rewarding experience that’s within anyone’s reach.

Today we want to make things easy for you with this introductory guide, which covers the basic and most important aspects of cultivation so you can successfully harvest your mushrooms without setbacks or headaches. Let’s go!

General instructions on how to grow hallucinogenic mushrooms

Each brand offers its own instructions to customers on how to achieve abundant harvests of hallucinogenic mushrooms. Although we recommend following each brand’s instructions, there are certain parameters that are generic and can be applied to all grow kits. To begin, we’ll quickly show you how to grow a hallucinogenic mushroom kit or bag, and then we’ll go into detail on each of the points we’re about to discuss:

To grow hallucinogenic mushrooms at home, the first step is obviously to get a grow kit to cultivate. To do so, and especially if you need some extra information before deciding, you can visit our posts on magic mushroom varieties for beginners or magic mushroom varieties for experienced users.

Once the product arrives at home, you should take it to a place that’s as clean and hygienic as possible to open it, unless it’s a grow bag, in which case you shouldn’t open it at all, just leave it in a space with the right temperature, between 23 and 27 ºC.

Going back to the usual mushroom kits: the best option is to put them inside the bag that comes in the package (Mushbag) or in a mini-greenhouse. This will be the space that guarantees the right environmental conditions for fruiting: between 22 and 26 ºC and at least 80% humidity.

If you ensure these conditions and pay close attention to hygiene, in 15 to 35 days (depending on the variety) you’ll be able to collect your first magic mushrooms. These can be eaten fresh or dried for storage.

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So, after this speed-run on how to grow hallucinogenic mushroom kits, let’s go through it step by step and in detail:

Materials needed to start a magic mushroom grow

The materials needed to start this type of mushroom cultivation are:

• The cultivation method (bag or mini-greenhouse)
• A thermo-hygrometer
• Heat source (if necessary): heating mat or tubular heater
• Water
• Sprayer/humidifier

Cultivation method: advantages and benefits of each one

The first step is to determine which cultivation method suits you best. Each has pros and cons, so you should choose the one that best fits your space and its environmental conditions. The most common methods are three: the Mushbag bags that come with mushroom kits, mini-greenhouses and ready-to-grow cultivation bags.

• Mushbag bags: these are breathable bags where you place the cake so that it can fruit. They act as a climate system where humidity and temperature can be easily controlled. They are individual, one per kit, and usually come with the kits you buy.
• Mini-greenhouses: mini-greenhouses are the next step towards a more controlled grow. It’s easier to regulate the climatic conditions and you can also cultivate a greater number of kits in the same place.
• Cultivation bags: these are bags with the mycelium already inside, so you don’t need anything else, just temperature control. An example of this type is the

Recommended climatic conditions for hallucinogenic mushrooms

For growing this type of mushroom, the first step is to know which climatic conditions are required. The three essential parameters are temperature, humidity and ventilation.

• Temperature: between 22 and 26 ºC.
• Humidity: it must stay above 80% at all times. You can spray water on the inner walls of the bag or greenhouse to keep it high, for example when you air the kit daily.
• Ventilation: ideally, open the bag for a few seconds every day to renew the air inside and prevent CO2 from building up.

It’s very important to stress that one of the main points to consider are sudden climatic changes, both in temperature and humidity. Magic mushrooms are quite sensitive to these and their growth can completely stall. Make sure their environment is as stable as possible!

Temperature: how to achieve it at any time of year

To reach the temperature needed to grow hallucinogenic mushrooms, different temperature control methods can be used, depending on the space and the time of year:

• If you grow in summer, you’ll need a cool, well-ventilated space where the temperature never exceeds 27 ºC.
• For winter cultivation, we offer ideal products to increase the heat in your grow space. If you’re working with small mini-greenhouses or bags, a heating mat is the ideal product. It keeps the temperature between 22 and 26 ºC. If you grow in larger mini-greenhouses or propagation tents, a tubular heater can be your best friend. There’s also the option of heated mini-greenhouses, which already include a built-in heating element.

Humidity in the grow space: tips and advice

Psilocybe Cubensis mushrooms require high humidity; as mentioned above, all brands recommend at least 80%. Each grow will need a different method depending on the space.

For Mushbag bags

• Add a finger’s depth of water to the bottom of the bag, making sure the substrate doesn’t come into contact with it.
• Spray water on the inner walls of the bag. It’s important not to spray directly on the kit once the primordia have appeared, as they could rot.
• If the walls of the bag dry quickly, you need to spray more often. You can add more water to the bottom of the bag or close the zipper opening a bit more.

For mini-greenhouses or propagators:

• Pour water into the bottom tray until it’s 3–4 cm deep. The heat from the heating mat will help evaporate this water and raise the relative humidity inside.
• If the mini-greenhouse has ventilation windows, you can adjust their opening to achieve a stable humidity level, ideally around 80%.
• To grow in propagation tents, either place a tray of water inside on which you can put the kit, or add a humidifier.

Finally, as mentioned earlier, keep in mind that sudden changes in temperature or humidity can slow down the development process.

Ventilation: how to keep your space well aired

Good air circulation helps remove accumulated carbon dioxide (CO2). Mushrooms, like other organisms, consume oxygen and produce CO2, and high concentrations of this gas can inhibit their growth. Ensuring proper ventilation is essential to keep a healthy growing environment.

Mushbag grow bags

It’s recommended to leave the bag partially open, about 1/3 of its length, to allow a continuous air exchange.

When you open it to spray water, take the opportunity to renew the air. You can squeeze the bag slightly to expel the “stale” air and let fresh air in before closing it again.

Keep in mind that you’re walking a fine line here: if the bag is too open, the kit can dry out or get contaminated.

Mini-greenhouses or propagators

In this case, the simplest way is to leave the vents open to achieve the desired humidity and ventilation level. As it’s a larger space, the air takes longer to become saturated with CO2, but it’s still recommended to open the mini-greenhouse periodically.

Hallucinogenic mushroom grow bags

This is a special case. Unlike traditional cakes, grow bags such as Mycobag are designed so that the bag itself acts as a controlled environment.

There’s no need to air or open the bag at any time during the grow, only to harvest. These hybrids can grow with high CO2 and barely any O2, which makes cultivation easier and reduces the chances of contamination since you don’t have to open the bag.

Hygiene in hallucinogenic mushroom cultivation

Hygiene in mycological cultivation is a key factor for success, from the very start of the grow to post-harvest handling and preparation for consumption.

A clean, controlled environment significantly reduces the risk of contamination in mushroom kits, as contamination is usually caused by other fungi and bacteria. It can compromise the quality and safety of the mushrooms produced; it’s not advisable to consume them if they are contaminated.

Contaminating microorganisms compete with the mycelium for nutrients and, in most cases, are more aggressive and colonise the substrate more quickly, resulting in the loss of the grow.

Preventive hygiene practices

Personal hygiene

• Wash your hands thoroughly or use disposable gloves before handling the mushrooms or their grow. If you use gloves, disinfect them once they’re on.
• Wear a mask while handling the kit to reduce the chances of contamination.
• Try not to touch the kit or breathe over it.

Work space hygiene

• Keep your grow environment clean and tidy.
• Regularly disinfect the work area and grow facilities with isopropyl alcohol.
• Keep the kits away from drafts.
• Disinfect all tools and equipment used.

During the grow

• It’s important to use gloves and masks every time you open the mini-greenhouse or Mushbag, as this is the riskiest moment in terms of contamination.
• Mushroom grow bags significantly reduce the risk of contamination because you don’t need to open the bag at any time during the grow, only to harvest.

Post grow (harvest, drying and storage)

• During harvest, wash your hands thoroughly or use gloves.
• Handle the mushrooms carefully when picking them so as not to damage the substrate or mycelium, which could impair the following flushes.
• Avoid harvesting too late, as the release of spores could contaminate the kit and make new fruitings more difficult.
• Drying the mushrooms completely is essential to preserve their potency and prevent mould and problems during storage.

Dangers and most common mistakes during magic mushroom cultivation

The most common and significant problems that can arise during magic mushroom cultivation revolve mainly around contamination and control of environmental conditions. These can seriously affect the mushroom cake and reduce production, or in the worst cases kill the mycelium. Below are the most frequent issues and their triggers:

Contamination of the grow

This is the most important and frustrating problem for growers. Contamination is caused by other fungi that compete with the mycelium. These unwanted microorganisms are often more aggressive and colonise the substrate faster than the mushroom mycelium, resulting in the loss of the grow.

Contaminations usually appear as patches of strange colours and textures on the surface of the kit that are not the pure white of healthy mycelium. The patches can be dark, pink, orange, green, etc., and may be accompanied by an unpleasant smell.

It’s important to distinguish these contaminations from the bluish bruising that mycelium or the mushrooms themselves can show due to psilocybin oxidation.

The main cause of contamination in mushroom kits is the lack of hygiene in the space or from the grower: it’s crucial to consider factors such as the grower’s hygiene, the grow space (air and lack of a clean, controlled environment) and the tools used.

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