Imagine this: you’ve spent months nurturing a batch of premium cannabis clones, hand-selected from a trusted source. They’re vigorous, vibrant, and primed for a bumper harvest. But when flowering kicks in, disaster strikes: the plants stall out, the buds turn into small, sad, airy little balls, and your yields crash by up to 50%. Welcome to the world of Hop Latent Viroid (HpLVd), the invisible destroyer that has become the cannabis grower’s worst nightmare. Often dubbed the “COVID of cannabis”, HpLVd doesn’t just hit hard; it spreads silently through your clones, underscoring why plant health is non-negotiable for any grower.

In this guide, we’ll demystify plant viruses (and viroids like HpLVd) in plain English—think science served with a touch of grow-room wisdom. We’ll trace the stealthy history of HpLVd, highlight its red flags, and arm you with battle-tested strategies to prevent and fight it. Whether you’re a seasoned grower or just dipping your toes into cloning, this is your roadmap to resilient, virus-free crops. Let’s dive in.

Plant viruses 101: Nature’s saboteurs

Before we zoom in on HpLVd, let’s pull back and look at the bigger picture: plant viruses and viroids. These tiny lurkers are the ultimate uninvited guests in your garden, but understanding them is your first line of defence.

Cannabis viruses

At their core, plant viruses are fragments of genetic code—either RNA or DNA—wrapped in a protein coat (or not, in the case of viroids). They’re not alive the way bacteria are; they’re more like rogue software that needs a host computer (your plant’s cells) to run. Once inside, they hijack the cell’s machinery: the plant’s own ribosomes and enzymes are pressed into service to crank out viral copies instead of essential plant proteins. This replication frenzy drains resources, disrupts metabolism, and triggers weird growth patterns.

Think of it like this: a virus sneaks into your plant’s “factory” (the cell nucleus or cytoplasm) through a back door—a pruning wound, an insect bite, or even contaminated tools. It tricks the factory workers (enzymes) into building a viral assembly line, flooding the system until cells burst or start sending distress signals to their neighbours. The result? A cascade of chaos.

Viroids, the category HpLVd belongs to, are even more stripped-down villains: naked loops of RNA with no protein coat, only 250–400 nucleotides long. They’re the minimalist hackers—small enough to slip past defences and replicate using the plant’s nuclear machinery via a “rolling-circle” method, spitting out error-prone copies that evolve on the fly.

Transmission is their superpower. Unlike animal viruses that travel by air or touch, plant viruses rely on vectors:

• Mechanical spread: sap from infected plants on your scissors or hands gets transferred to healthy ones during cloning or trimming.
• Insect messengers: aphids, whiteflies, or leafhoppers sip virus-laden sap and deposit it elsewhere.
• Vegetative betrayal: grafts, cuttings, or clones carry the load directly from the mother plant to the babies.
• Seed surprises: rare, but some viruses travel in pollen or embryos.

Symptoms vary by virus and host, but often include:

• Mosaic patterns: mottled, yellow-green leaves that look like a bad paint job.
• Stunting: dwarfed growth, as if the plant hit a permanent growth plateau.
• Necrosis: dead spots or wilting, the plant’s SOS flare.
• Yield impacts: fewer flowers, smaller fruits, or watered-down potency—devastating for cannabis.

The catch? Many infections lurk asymptomatically, only showing up under stress like heat, drought, or flowering. For growers, that means vigilance: healthy plants fight back better, so balanced nutrition, optimal light, and low-stress environments are your baseline armour. Now, let’s meet the viroid that’s driving the cannabis world crazy.

HpLVd: From hop fields to cannabis chaos—a brief history

Hop Latent Viroid earned its name from humble beginnings in hop yards. Discovered in 1987 in Spain, it first appeared as an innocuous RNA oddity in Humulus lupulus (hop, the cannabis plant’s botanical cousin in the Cannabaceae family). By 1988, surveys in Germany revealed it was infecting 90–100% of European hop cultivars—yet hops largely shrugged it off with mild symptoms, like a modest drop in cone yields (8–37%) or bitter acids (15–50%). Brewers noticed subtler beer flavours from altered terpenes, but there was no industry-wide panic.

Fast-forward to the cannabis boom. HpLVd jumped species around 2017, probably via shared propagation tools or infected germplasm in U.S. facilities. The first rumblings showed up on online forums in 2014, with growers complaining about the “dudding disease”—stunted, brittle plants producing airy buds. By 2019, high-throughput sequencing nailed it: HpLVd was the culprit in California, where a survey by Dark Heart Nursery estimated 90% of operations were contaminated. It then tore through North America, Canada, and beyond, with infection rates averaging 30% across the industry and economic hits nearing $4 billion annually in lost yields and potency.

Why cannabis? Unlike resilient hops, weed is a softer target. HpLVd’s 256-nucleotide circular RNA thrives in cannabis cells, replicating in the nucleolus and clogging up metabolite production. It hits glandular trichomes especially hard, slashing THC by 50–70%, terpenes by up to 40%, and overall vigour. Two variants (Can1 and Can2) have adapted, with mutations like U225A boosting infectivity. It’s pleiotropic—symptoms range from none to full-blown nightmare—making it a shapeshifter in your grow.

Bottom line, HpLVd’s “latent” label is a lie in cannabis: it hides in veg, then explodes in flower, turning premium clones into liabilities.

Spotting the cannabis virus: HpLVd symptoms in your grow

Early detection is your crop’s guardian angel, but HpLVd plays hide-and-seek like a pro. In clones from infected mothers, it often lies dormant until week 4+ of flower, when stress unmasks it. Here’s what to watch for, especially if you run a clone-heavy setup:

• Stunting and structural changes: shorter internodes, more horizontal sprawl than vertical reach, and overall dwarfing—as if the plant were stuck in permanent juvenile mode.
• Brittle stems and leaves: they snap like dry twigs; foliage yellows (chlorosis) or curls unevenly.
• Dudding disaster: the hallmark—buds stay small, loose, and sparse. Trichomes ripen early (amber too soon), resin production tanks, and aromas fade.
• Potency crash: lab tests show cannabinoid drops (THC down 50%+), terpene loss (myrcene oddly elevated, β-caryophyllene down 13–29%), and weaker flavour.

Not all cultivars respond the same way; some coast with few symptoms while others fail en masse. Co-infections (e.g., with other viroids) amplify the damage. Pro tip: scout weekly under magnification—uneven trichome distribution is a screaming red flag. When in doubt, test: RT-PCR on leaf samples from both old and new growth is the gold standard, catching around 30% of silent carriers.

Transmission traps: Why clones are HpLVd’s highway

HpLVd doesn’t fly or float; it’s a full-contact sport. As a viroid, it needs direct sap-to-sap transfer—perfect for clone-heavy operations.

• Clone-borne contagion: the big one. Infected mother plants pass it 100% to cuttings. One sketchy clone in your tray? Boom—your whole batch is toast.
• Tool terrorism: pruners, scalpels, or gloves smeared with sap spread it like wildfire. Recirculating hydro systems or shared reservoirs amplify the problem.
• Human highways: workers touching multiple plants without washing? Instant vector.
• Rare routes: pollen/seed transmission is negligible; no known insect vectors.

In cannabis, where 70%+ of crops start from clones, this transmission chain explains the explosion. A single imported cutting can doom an entire facility. Lesson: plant health starts upstream—vet your sources ruthlessly.

How to prevent it: Protect your clones from day one

Good news: HpLVd is beatable with prevention. Focus on clean inputs and rock-solid hygiene—your clones will thank you.

1. Source smart: ditch untested clones; opt for certified clean stock or start from seed (much lower risk). Quarantine new arrivals for 30 days, testing in week 3 via lab RT-PCR or dot-blot.
2. Sanitise like a surgeon: bleach (5–10% sodium hypochlorite) or Virkon S (2%) on tools—alcohol doesn’t cut it, since it precipitates RNA. Heat-treat blades at 160°C for 10 minutes. Swap PPE between plants; wash hands obsessively.
3. Segment your grow: keep veg and flower separated; use dedicated cloners per batch. Filter water and avoid runoff mixing.
4. Boost resilience: healthy plants fight back via RNA silencing. Dial in balanced nutrients at the right pH, stable temps, and low stress—strong clones slow viral buildup.
5. Test religiously: sample 10–20% of your stock every quarter. Early wins save whole harvests.

These steps cut risk by about 90%—proven in hop yards and cannabis labs alike.

Fighting an outbreak: Damage control when HpLVd hits

Found an infection? Don’t panic—move fast. There’s no silver-bullet antiviral, but here’s your playbook:

• Cull ruthlessly: chop symptomatic plants immediately; burn or bleach waste to kill persistent RNA.
• Rescue team: for salvageable mothers, try meristem-tip culture (micro-propagating tiny <0.5 mm shoot tips) paired with cold (2–4°C for months) or heat therapy (36°C for 2 weeks). This can knock down viral load via mutations but it’s not foolproof—re-infection is a constant threat.
• Facility wash-down: deep-clean everything; use urea or chloropicrin for soil. Restart with verified clean material.
• Long-term R&D: breed resistant cultivars or deploy RNA interference—emerging tools, but not quite ready for your grow room yet.

Recovery hurts yields in the short term, but rebuilds trust in your system. Remember: one clean cycle resets the clock.

Final harvest: Put plant health first for thriving grows

HpLVd isn’t just a viroid—it’s a wake-up call. In an industry hooked on clones for speed and uniformity, its spread drives home why plant health trumps everything. From virus basics to outbreak ops, once you’re armed with the right knowledge, you can grow with confidence, dodge duds, and deliver your best.

At Alchimiaweb, we aim to empower growers by giving them the tools to succeed. Stock up on sterile gear, test kits, or clean genetics today—your next round of clones is waiting. Got HpLVd stories or tips to share? Drop them in the comments. Grow Happiness!

Bibliography

1. 1. Adkar-Purushothama, C. R., Sano, T., & Perreault, J. P. (2023). Hop latent viroid: A hidden threat to the cannabis industry. Viruses, 15(3), 681. https://doi.org/10.3390/v15030681
   2. Punja, Z. K., Collyer, D., Scott, C., Holmes, J., Zhao, Y. Y., Hinz, F., … & Reed, S. (2023). Symptomology, prevalence, and impact of hop latent viroid on greenhouse-grown cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) plants in Canada. Canadian Journal of Plant Pathology, 46(2), 174–197. https://doi.org/10.1080/07060661.2023.2279184
   3. Punja, Z. K., Scott, C., Tso, H. H., Munz, J., & Buirs, L. (2025). Transmission, spread, longevity and management of hop latent viroid, a widespread and destructive pathogen affecting cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) plants in North America. Plants, 14(5), 830. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants14050830
   4. Puchta, H., Ramm, K., & Sänger, H. L. (1988). The molecular structure of 26 S rRNA from Humulus lupulus L. (hops) and the sequence of a viroid-like RNA associated with hop stunt disease. Nucleic Acids Research, 16(9), 4197–4216. https://doi.org/10.1093/nar/16.9.4197
   5. Warren, J. G., Mercado, J., & Grace, D. (2019). Occurrence of hop latent viroid causing disease in Cannabis sativa in California. Plant Disease, 103(10), 2699. https://doi.org/10.1094/PDIS-03-19-0530-PDN
   6. Viruses and Viroids – an overview. (n.d.). In ScienceDirect Topics. Elsevier. Retrieved November 24, 2025, from https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/viruses-and-viroids
   7. Hop latent viroid in hemp. (n.d.). OSU Extension Service. Oregon State University. Retrieved November 24, 2025, from https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/em-9570-hop-latent-viroid-hemp
   8. Kovalchuk, I., Pellino, M., Rigault, P., van Velzen, R., Bhalerao, R., Clark, J., … & Kovalchuk, A. (2020). The Genomics of Cannabis and Its Conservation. Genome Biology and Evolution, 12(3), 292–312. (For general viroid context; referenced in broader reviews)
   9. Hop Latent Viroid: A Guide to Sampling, Testing and Lab Selection. (2024, July 9). Cannabis Business Times. Retrieved November 24, 2025, from https://www.cannabisbusinesstimes.com/disease/cannabis-plant-disease/news/15686586/hop-latent-viroid-a-guide-to-sampling-testing-and-lab-selection
   10. Bektaş, M., Sõmera, M., Faggioli, F., & Pallas, V. (2019). First report of hop latent viroid on marijuana (Cannabis sativa) in California. Plant Disease, 103(10), 2699. https://doi.org/10.1094/PDIS-03-19-0530-PDN

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In cannabis cultivation, achieving truly exceptional harvests doesn’t depend only on large buds or high THC percentages. True quality comes from understanding how the plant responds to its environment and applying techniques that enhance its natural physiology. Among these practices, one stands out for its simplicity and effectiveness: controlled water stress. Far from being a trend, it is a science-backed strategy that allows growers to increase resin production, intensify aromas and enhance the metabolite profile without adding extra products or complicating the grow. In this article, we explore what it is, how it works and how to apply it correctly to take your flowers to the next level.

Although its name may sound harsh, its mechanism is based on a simple principle: when the plant senses that water is scarce, it activates defence mechanisms that increase the production of trichomes and secondary metabolites. This reaction is not exclusive to cannabis. Many aromatic and medicinal crops, such as lavender, rosemary, thyme, sage or even grapevine, respond in a similar way. In all of them, a moderate water deficit enhances aroma, essential oil concentration and, in the case of grapes, sugar levels (alcohol).

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What is controlled water stress?

Controlled water stress is a method applied during the final stage of flowering and consists essentially of temporarily reducing irrigation frequency. The goal is to trigger a mild physiological discomfort that activates metabolic pathways associated with defence. When roots detect reduced water availability, the plant produces abscisic acid (ABA), a hormone that instructs stomata to partially close to prevent moisture loss. This small shift alters the plant’s internal dynamics: photosynthesis decreases slightly, primary processes slow down and activity in secondary pathways increases, including the synthesis of terpenes, flavonoids and cannabinoids.

The result is often visible: greater resin density, more defined aromas and more uniform ripening. But to reach that point, the process must be applied in a controlled way, without pushing the plant into extreme drought.

The science behind water deficit

We now know that this mechanism is supported by scientific research. A study by Caplan et al. (University of Guelph, 2019) applied a water deficit during late flowering and recorded a 12–13% increase in THCA and CBDA, together with a 67% increase in total cannabinoids per cultivated area. These results were especially notable because there was no loss of biomass.

Recent reviews, such as the one published in Horticulturae by Sharma et al. (2025), compile multiple trials showing a clear pattern: mild, late water deficit stimulates secondary metabolite production as long as it is kept within safe limits. However, when stress is excessive or applied too early, the effects can be negative: reduced trichomes, oxidative stress, loss of vigour or greater susceptibility to pathogens. In other words, water stress works — but it requires precision and constant observation.

How to water marijuana plants in soil

How to apply water stress without harming your plants

Choose the right timing

Water stress should only be applied when the flowers are already formed and beginning their ripening phase. For most photoperiod strains, this occurs between the 6th and 8th week of flowering. Applying it earlier may stress the root system, reduce final bud size and make plants more vulnerable to pests like mites, which quickly take advantage of weakened tissues.

Reduce watering progressively

You shouldn’t stop watering abruptly. The correct approach is to slowly space out irrigation: if you water every two days, switch to every three or four; if you water twice a week, reduce to once or one and a half, depending on pot size. What matters is allowing the substrate to dry more than usual, while never letting it dry out completely.

The plant will give clear signs: slightly drooping leaves during the warmest part of the day indicate the right stress level. In contrast, general wilting, soft stems or burnt tips mean the stress is too strong. After watering, the plant should recover within a few hours — this rebound signals proper management.

Apply repeated cycles

Controlled water stress works best when applied in gentle cycles: a period of mild dryness followed by recovery. Typically, this pattern is repeated two or three times during the last weeks of flowering. In fully controlled indoor environments (stable climate, good airflow), some advanced growers leave 10–12 days without watering right before root flushing.

When done correctly, this method produces denser flowers, with less internal moisture and higher trichome concentration.

Expected results

When the process is executed correctly, the changes are noticeable. The increase in trichome production is often the most obvious effect. This increase is not only visual but chemical: greater concentration of essential oils and cannabinoids. The aromatic profile also changes. Volatile terpenes such as myrcene, limonene, pinene or linalool express themselves more intensely. This results in a more pronounced fragrance at harvest and a stronger flavour after curing.

Another clear benefit is the reduced risk of Botrytis. Flowers with lower internal moisture are less likely to develop mould, especially in dense-bud varieties or humid climates.

It’s important to highlight that water stress does not always increase the final yield. That is not its purpose. What it consistently improves is overall quality: more density, more resin, stronger aroma and a much more professional finish.

Precautions and common mistakes

Although the technique is simple, it is not risk-free. The most common mistake is taking drought too far. When the substrate dries out completely, roots can be damaged, leaves may show necrosis and the plant may enter a stress cycle that provides no benefit.

Another mistake is applying it at the wrong moment: during growth, preflowering or when flowers are still small. In these phases, the plant prioritizes basic structures: roots, stems, leaves and calyx formation. Interrupting that process can reduce final yield.

High temperatures can also amplify the damage caused by water deficit. With less water, the plant has a reduced ability to regulate its internal temperature. In warm environments, maintaining correct VPD and strong ventilation is essential.

An interesting ally in these situations is silicon. This element strengthens cell walls, improves tolerance to abiotic stress and reduces vulnerability to pests. At Alchimia, we recommend products such as Biotabs Silicium Flash or Atami B’Cuzz Silic Boost to support this type of technique.

Overwatering cannabis plants

A technique for growers who seek real quality

Controlled water stress is part of precision cultivation, where the goal is not to harvest more but to harvest better. It resembles what happens in viticulture: before harvest, winegrowers prefer dry weather, since excess water dilutes grape aromas and reduces sugar concentration (alcohol). In the same way, a cannabis plant with limited water availability concentrates more resin and terpenes.

Moreover, when combined with complementary techniques such as night-time temperature drop, use of natural biostimulants, VPD control or strategic pruning, water stress acts as a final enhancer that allows the plant to express its full genetic potential. Among the most widely used natural biostimulants are Aptus All-in-One Pellet and C02 Effect Led Nano, valued for supporting metabolic processes without saturating the substrate.

Scientific sources and recommended reading

• Caplan, D., Dixon, M., & Zheng, Y. (2019). Increasing inflorescence dry weight and cannabinoid content in medical cannabis using controlled drought stress. HortScience, 54(5), 964–969.
• Sharma, A., Singh, R., & Kumar, V. (2025). The effects of water-deficit stress on Cannabis sativa L. development and production of secondary metabolites: A review. Horticulturae, 11(6), 646.
• Tanney, C. A. S., Backer, R. G. M., & Smith, D. L. (2021). Cannabis glandular trichomes: A cellular metabolite factory. Frontiers in Plant Science, 12, 721986.
• Kurek, K., et al. (2024). Effects of water and wind stress on phytochemical diversity and insect communities in hemp (Cannabis sativa L.). Plants, 13(3), 474.
• Burke, I. C., et al. (2024). Severe drought significantly reduces floral hemp yield, CBD, and THC concentrations. Scientia Horticulturae, 322, 112015.
• Ahmad, P., et al. (2024). Interaction of water deficit and nanosilicon on Cannabis sativa L.: Growth and cannabinoid response. Physiologia Plantarum, 176(4), e14238.

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After harvest, most cannabis growers focus on traditional drying and curing in jars. However, there is a lesser-known but highly effective method to obtain a purer and smoother smoke: water curing.

This refinement process consists of submerging already trimmed buds in clean water for several days, changing the water daily. In this way, most soluble impurities (chlorophyll, sugars, mineral salts, nutrient residues) responsible for harsh combustion are removed. The result: a smoother herb to smoke, less irritating to the throat and lungs, while preserving all cannabinoids.

Why cure cannabis in water?

Water curing is a post-harvest technique developed as an alternative to classic cannabis curing. Its principle is based on the fact that many substances responsible for the “green” or unpleasant taste are water-soluble. Instead of waiting several weeks for these compounds to naturally degrade inside a jar, the water bath accelerates the process by extracting them directly.

This method is especially useful when the plant was not properly flushed before harvest or when improving flowers that retained a fertilizer taste.

Before performing water curing, keep the following characteristics in mind:

• Process duration: 3 to 10 days.
• Substances removed: chlorophyll, sugars, mineral salts, residual nutrients.
• Cannabinoids: preserved (they are not water-soluble).
• Terpenes: partially lost, especially the most volatile ones.
• Appearance: duller, less aromatic flowers, but with a whiter, more even burn.
• Main advantage: extremely smooth smoke, ideal for sensitive users.
• Drawback: reduced aroma and flavor.
• Caution: dry the flowers thoroughly after the bath to prevent mold.

How to perform proper water curing step by step

1. Harvest and trimming: Once the plants are cut, remove the large leaves and the small resinous leaves if desired.
2. Immersion in water: Place the buds in a clean container filled with water at room temperature (18–24 °C). Use a weight or an inverted lid to keep them fully submerged.
3. Daily water change: Change the water each day to gradually remove dissolved substances. You will often see the water turn cloudy or greenish — a good sign that impurities are being released.
4. Duration: Generally 5 to 7 days is enough, though some extend to 10 days for a “cleaner” result.
5. Drying: After the final day, gently drain the flowers and let them dry in a dark, ventilated, dry place. This step is crucial to avoid mold.
6. Storage: Once fully dry, store the flowers in airtight jars, protected from light and humidity.

Practical tips

• Use very clean or distilled water.
• Do not overload the container: good water circulation improves cleaning.
• Observe the water color: the cloudier it is, the more impurities have been removed.
• The final drying must be slow and well controlled.
• This process is ideal for smoothing out harsh-tasting or poorly flushed herb.

Flavor and effect of water-cured cannabis

Water curing produces noticeably smoother, less irritating smoke because it removes chlorophyll and residues responsible for bitterness. However, this smoothness comes with a loss of aroma: some volatile terpenes dissolve in water, making the smell and flavor more neutral. The flowers therefore lose part of their aromatic appeal, but gain in comfort when smoked or vaporized.

Cannabinoids (THC, CBD, etc.) are not water-soluble, so they remain intact. The effect stays the same, although some users notice the experience feels more direct, as the absence of aromatic terpenes leaves a “purer” sensation without flavor modulation.

Conclusion: smoother smoke but less aromatic

Water curing is a simple, fast and effective technique to obtain a final product of exceptional smoothness. Although it slightly reduces the natural aroma of cannabis, it compensates with clean, light and pleasant smoke. It is especially recommended for users seeking a more comfortable experience or to improve a harvest with an overly aggressive taste.

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The home cultivation of magic mushrooms is becoming increasingly common due to the rise in their consumption. Being an easy, fast and convenient crop, as well as profitable, more and more people are choosing to grow them at home. While it may sound complex at first, with the right instructions and materials it turns into a rewarding experience that’s within anyone’s reach.

Today we want to make things easy for you with this introductory guide, which covers the basic and most important aspects of cultivation so you can successfully harvest your mushrooms without setbacks or headaches. Let’s go!

General instructions on how to grow hallucinogenic mushrooms

Each brand offers its own instructions to customers on how to achieve abundant harvests of hallucinogenic mushrooms. Although we recommend following each brand’s instructions, there are certain parameters that are generic and can be applied to all grow kits. To begin, we’ll quickly show you how to grow a hallucinogenic mushroom kit or bag, and then we’ll go into detail on each of the points we’re about to discuss:

To grow hallucinogenic mushrooms at home, the first step is obviously to get a grow kit to cultivate. To do so, and especially if you need some extra information before deciding, you can visit our posts on magic mushroom varieties for beginners or magic mushroom varieties for experienced users.

Once the product arrives at home, you should take it to a place that’s as clean and hygienic as possible to open it, unless it’s a grow bag, in which case you shouldn’t open it at all, just leave it in a space with the right temperature, between 23 and 27 ºC.

Going back to the usual mushroom kits: the best option is to put them inside the bag that comes in the package (Mushbag) or in a mini-greenhouse. This will be the space that guarantees the right environmental conditions for fruiting: between 22 and 26 ºC and at least 80% humidity.

If you ensure these conditions and pay close attention to hygiene, in 15 to 35 days (depending on the variety) you’ll be able to collect your first magic mushrooms. These can be eaten fresh or dried for storage.

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So, after this speed-run on how to grow hallucinogenic mushroom kits, let’s go through it step by step and in detail:

Materials needed to start a magic mushroom grow

The materials needed to start this type of mushroom cultivation are:

• The cultivation method (bag or mini-greenhouse)
• A thermo-hygrometer
• Heat source (if necessary): heating mat or tubular heater
• Water
• Sprayer/humidifier

Cultivation method: advantages and benefits of each one

The first step is to determine which cultivation method suits you best. Each has pros and cons, so you should choose the one that best fits your space and its environmental conditions. The most common methods are three: the Mushbag bags that come with mushroom kits, mini-greenhouses and ready-to-grow cultivation bags.

• Mushbag bags: these are breathable bags where you place the cake so that it can fruit. They act as a climate system where humidity and temperature can be easily controlled. They are individual, one per kit, and usually come with the kits you buy.
• Mini-greenhouses: mini-greenhouses are the next step towards a more controlled grow. It’s easier to regulate the climatic conditions and you can also cultivate a greater number of kits in the same place.
• Cultivation bags: these are bags with the mycelium already inside, so you don’t need anything else, just temperature control. An example of this type is the

Recommended climatic conditions for hallucinogenic mushrooms

For growing this type of mushroom, the first step is to know which climatic conditions are required. The three essential parameters are temperature, humidity and ventilation.

• Temperature: between 22 and 26 ºC.
• Humidity: it must stay above 80% at all times. You can spray water on the inner walls of the bag or greenhouse to keep it high, for example when you air the kit daily.
• Ventilation: ideally, open the bag for a few seconds every day to renew the air inside and prevent CO2 from building up.

It’s very important to stress that one of the main points to consider are sudden climatic changes, both in temperature and humidity. Magic mushrooms are quite sensitive to these and their growth can completely stall. Make sure their environment is as stable as possible!

Temperature: how to achieve it at any time of year

To reach the temperature needed to grow hallucinogenic mushrooms, different temperature control methods can be used, depending on the space and the time of year:

• If you grow in summer, you’ll need a cool, well-ventilated space where the temperature never exceeds 27 ºC.
• For winter cultivation, we offer ideal products to increase the heat in your grow space. If you’re working with small mini-greenhouses or bags, a heating mat is the ideal product. It keeps the temperature between 22 and 26 ºC. If you grow in larger mini-greenhouses or propagation tents, a tubular heater can be your best friend. There’s also the option of heated mini-greenhouses, which already include a built-in heating element.

Humidity in the grow space: tips and advice

Psilocybe Cubensis mushrooms require high humidity; as mentioned above, all brands recommend at least 80%. Each grow will need a different method depending on the space.

For Mushbag bags

• Add a finger’s depth of water to the bottom of the bag, making sure the substrate doesn’t come into contact with it.
• Spray water on the inner walls of the bag. It’s important not to spray directly on the kit once the primordia have appeared, as they could rot.
• If the walls of the bag dry quickly, you need to spray more often. You can add more water to the bottom of the bag or close the zipper opening a bit more.

For mini-greenhouses or propagators:

• Pour water into the bottom tray until it’s 3–4 cm deep. The heat from the heating mat will help evaporate this water and raise the relative humidity inside.
• If the mini-greenhouse has ventilation windows, you can adjust their opening to achieve a stable humidity level, ideally around 80%.
• To grow in propagation tents, either place a tray of water inside on which you can put the kit, or add a humidifier.

Finally, as mentioned earlier, keep in mind that sudden changes in temperature or humidity can slow down the development process.

Ventilation: how to keep your space well aired

Good air circulation helps remove accumulated carbon dioxide (CO2). Mushrooms, like other organisms, consume oxygen and produce CO2, and high concentrations of this gas can inhibit their growth. Ensuring proper ventilation is essential to keep a healthy growing environment.

Mushbag grow bags

It’s recommended to leave the bag partially open, about 1/3 of its length, to allow a continuous air exchange.

When you open it to spray water, take the opportunity to renew the air. You can squeeze the bag slightly to expel the “stale” air and let fresh air in before closing it again.

Keep in mind that you’re walking a fine line here: if the bag is too open, the kit can dry out or get contaminated.

Mini-greenhouses or propagators

In this case, the simplest way is to leave the vents open to achieve the desired humidity and ventilation level. As it’s a larger space, the air takes longer to become saturated with CO2, but it’s still recommended to open the mini-greenhouse periodically.

Hallucinogenic mushroom grow bags

This is a special case. Unlike traditional cakes, grow bags such as Mycobag are designed so that the bag itself acts as a controlled environment.

There’s no need to air or open the bag at any time during the grow, only to harvest. These hybrids can grow with high CO2 and barely any O2, which makes cultivation easier and reduces the chances of contamination since you don’t have to open the bag.

Hygiene in hallucinogenic mushroom cultivation

Hygiene in mycological cultivation is a key factor for success, from the very start of the grow to post-harvest handling and preparation for consumption.

A clean, controlled environment significantly reduces the risk of contamination in mushroom kits, as contamination is usually caused by other fungi and bacteria. It can compromise the quality and safety of the mushrooms produced; it’s not advisable to consume them if they are contaminated.

Contaminating microorganisms compete with the mycelium for nutrients and, in most cases, are more aggressive and colonise the substrate more quickly, resulting in the loss of the grow.

Preventive hygiene practices

Personal hygiene

• Wash your hands thoroughly or use disposable gloves before handling the mushrooms or their grow. If you use gloves, disinfect them once they’re on.
• Wear a mask while handling the kit to reduce the chances of contamination.
• Try not to touch the kit or breathe over it.

Work space hygiene

• Keep your grow environment clean and tidy.
• Regularly disinfect the work area and grow facilities with isopropyl alcohol.
• Keep the kits away from drafts.
• Disinfect all tools and equipment used.

During the grow

• It’s important to use gloves and masks every time you open the mini-greenhouse or Mushbag, as this is the riskiest moment in terms of contamination.
• Mushroom grow bags significantly reduce the risk of contamination because you don’t need to open the bag at any time during the grow, only to harvest.

Post grow (harvest, drying and storage)

• During harvest, wash your hands thoroughly or use gloves.
• Handle the mushrooms carefully when picking them so as not to damage the substrate or mycelium, which could impair the following flushes.
• Avoid harvesting too late, as the release of spores could contaminate the kit and make new fruitings more difficult.
• Drying the mushrooms completely is essential to preserve their potency and prevent mould and problems during storage.

Dangers and most common mistakes during magic mushroom cultivation

The most common and significant problems that can arise during magic mushroom cultivation revolve mainly around contamination and control of environmental conditions. These can seriously affect the mushroom cake and reduce production, or in the worst cases kill the mycelium. Below are the most frequent issues and their triggers:

Contamination of the grow

This is the most important and frustrating problem for growers. Contamination is caused by other fungi that compete with the mycelium. These unwanted microorganisms are often more aggressive and colonise the substrate faster than the mushroom mycelium, resulting in the loss of the grow.

Contaminations usually appear as patches of strange colours and textures on the surface of the kit that are not the pure white of healthy mycelium. The patches can be dark, pink, orange, green, etc., and may be accompanied by an unpleasant smell.

It’s important to distinguish these contaminations from the bluish bruising that mycelium or the mushrooms themselves can show due to psilocybin oxidation.

The main cause of contamination in mushroom kits is the lack of hygiene in the space or from the grower: it’s crucial to consider factors such as the grower’s hygiene, the grow space (air and lack of a clean, controlled environment) and the tools used.

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