My New Old Keyboard
5 June 2025 at 09:46
It should come as no surprise that I type a lot. And I really mean a lot. Almost every keyboard I own has worn off the letters on the keys. Then again, I type so much that I'm really a touch-typist; I rarely look at the keyboard. (Even before I took a class on typing on a typewriter in elementary school, I was already typing as fast I as I could talk. Do schools still teach typing?)
There are lots of different types of keyboards out there: high profile, low profile, feather sensitivity or heavy hitters, curved keys, uniform height, etc. Personally, I like the loud, heavy keyboards with high profiles (keys stand up) and no gap between the keys. This way, I can feel the keys without looking down and tell the difference between brushing a finger over a key and actually typing a letter. (If you can't hear my typing during a video call, then the keyboard isn't loud enough.)
Most of my keyboards have had black or gray keys. A few years ago (2022), I bought a "large print keyboard" for the fun of it. It had big keys, a high profile, and a loud click. The selling point for me were the huge letters and the bright yellow color.
Unfortunately, it didn't last very long. Within a few months, the black paint on the letters began to vanish. 'A', 'S', and 'D' were the first to go, followed by 'X', 'C', and 'V' (for cut, copy, and paste). Fast forward to today (3 years later):
The shift-key on the right doesn't have a black scratch on it. That's where I've literally worn through the yellow plastic. It's not that I don't use the letters Q, P, H, or U; they just seem to have lasted longer. (I joked with my colleagues that the backspace and delete keys are in pristine conditions -- because I don't make mistakes.)
Over the last 40+ years, I've seen the quality degrade as vendors cut costs by using cheaper materials. The old heavy IBM PC keyboards were built like tanks -- they never broke down, even if the letters might fade a little. The PS/2 keyboards (circa 1987-1997) had more plastic and occasionally the key switches would degrade before the print on the keys wore off. (I have one old PS/2 keyboard that types "jn" every time you press "n". Beneath each key is a switch. This problem might be a dirty contact, but I don't think I can open the keyboard up without breaking it.) Today's USB keyboards are extremely lightweight but also cheaply constructed; letters fade fast and the plastic on the keys might wear out. Today's keyboards are not built to last.
Making matters worse, most keyboards are made overseas. Between the (insane) tariffs and shipping delays, I don't want to wait. And with the current economic instability, I'd rather not spend the money, even on a new cheap keyboard, if I absolutely don't have to.
Today I went digging through the box, looking for something with the right profile and feel.
There's just one problem. It predates the appearance of the "Super" key ("Windows" or "Command" key on keyboards, next to the shift buttons). On my desk are two computers that share the same keyboard and mouse: a Linux box and a Mac. I use some software called 'Synergy' to link the desktops. As the mouse goes off the side of one monitor, it appears on the next computer's screen. Linux doesn't use the Windows/Command key, but Macs do. This missing key is going to be a problem... Fortunately, Synergy permits me to remap 'alt' to the Mac 'Command' key. (Problem solved.)
There are lots of different types of keyboards out there: high profile, low profile, feather sensitivity or heavy hitters, curved keys, uniform height, etc. Personally, I like the loud, heavy keyboards with high profiles (keys stand up) and no gap between the keys. This way, I can feel the keys without looking down and tell the difference between brushing a finger over a key and actually typing a letter. (If you can't hear my typing during a video call, then the keyboard isn't loud enough.)
Most of my keyboards have had black or gray keys. A few years ago (2022), I bought a "large print keyboard" for the fun of it. It had big keys, a high profile, and a loud click. The selling point for me were the huge letters and the bright yellow color.
Unfortunately, it didn't last very long. Within a few months, the black paint on the letters began to vanish. 'A', 'S', and 'D' were the first to go, followed by 'X', 'C', and 'V' (for cut, copy, and paste). Fast forward to today (3 years later):
The shift-key on the right doesn't have a black scratch on it. That's where I've literally worn through the yellow plastic. It's not that I don't use the letters Q, P, H, or U; they just seem to have lasted longer. (I joked with my colleagues that the backspace and delete keys are in pristine conditions -- because I don't make mistakes.)
The New Problems
When a keyboard gets worn down this much, I typically go out and buy a new cheap keyboard. Given that I wear through keyboards every few years, I have trouble justifying $100 for a fancy replacement. Give me a $10 cheap-plastic keyboard every few years and I'll be happy. (Seriously, I splurged $23 on the yellow keyboard. It lasted 3 years, so that's less than $8 a year. Before the yellow keyboard, I had a cheap $12 one that also lasted 3 years, so it cost $4 per year to use.)Over the last 40+ years, I've seen the quality degrade as vendors cut costs by using cheaper materials. The old heavy IBM PC keyboards were built like tanks -- they never broke down, even if the letters might fade a little. The PS/2 keyboards (circa 1987-1997) had more plastic and occasionally the key switches would degrade before the print on the keys wore off. (I have one old PS/2 keyboard that types "jn" every time you press "n". Beneath each key is a switch. This problem might be a dirty contact, but I don't think I can open the keyboard up without breaking it.) Today's USB keyboards are extremely lightweight but also cheaply constructed; letters fade fast and the plastic on the keys might wear out. Today's keyboards are not built to last.
Making matters worse, most keyboards are made overseas. Between the (insane) tariffs and shipping delays, I don't want to wait. And with the current economic instability, I'd rather not spend the money, even on a new cheap keyboard, if I absolutely don't have to.
What's Old is New
Fortunately, I have a huge box of old keyboards in the storage area. It includes everything from modern USB to old PS/2 and the super old 5-pin DIN connectors. (I think the oldest keyboard in the box is from the early 1980s.) Some computer manufactures would bundle a keyboard with every new computer. Other times I'd pick up a keyboard in a box of auction junk. (Often, I'd want something else at the auction, but the box being sold also contained keyboards.) Any keyboard I don't like, don't need, don't use, or is broken for some reason gets put in the big box of keyboards.Today I went digging through the box, looking for something with the right profile and feel.
- The first good one was a 105 keys with a PS/2 connector. (Most US keyboards have 101 keys.) My computer doesn't have a PS/2 port, but in the "big box of old keyboards" was an old PS2-to-USB adapter! That's the nice thing about keyboards -- they all use the same communication protocol. As long as you have the right adapter to plug it in, the computer will recognize it and it will just work.
This new old keyboard was manufactured in 1992 by a company that no longer exists. (I looked them up. Today, there's a company with the same name, but they were founded in 2001.) And yet, the keyboard still works fine. Well, sort of. All of the standard "101" keys still work fine, but the custom "power", "sleep", "wake", and "Fn" buttons don't register when I press them. (Maybe I need to tweak the keyboard mapping? Probably not worth the effort.) Since it's not perfect, I went back to the box of keyboards. - The next keyboard had a bunch of sticky keys that push down but pop up slowly. (From an auction, someone probably spilled a drink on the keyboard a few decades ago.)
- The original "Sun" keyboard looks like a PS/2 but doesn't work; it's probably not really communicating with PS/2. (When possible, stay away from proprietary connectors.)
- I found one of my old keyboards that I used with my OS/2 workstation. After plugging it in, I remembered why I replaced it: the space bar was broken. Many space bars have a metal wire that ensures that the key goes down evenly. The wire fits into some plastic clips underneath. After years of use, those clips had broken off.
There's just one problem. It predates the appearance of the "Super" key ("Windows" or "Command" key on keyboards, next to the shift buttons). On my desk are two computers that share the same keyboard and mouse: a Linux box and a Mac. I use some software called 'Synergy' to link the desktops. As the mouse goes off the side of one monitor, it appears on the next computer's screen. Linux doesn't use the Windows/Command key, but Macs do. This missing key is going to be a problem... Fortunately, Synergy permits me to remap 'alt' to the Mac 'Command' key. (Problem solved.)
Macros
On my desktop computer, I have a few macros mapped to certain keys. For example:- I almost never use the function keys. I've mapped "F9" to toggle my mouse size. If I press it, then the cursor becomes larger -- which is great for video chats and sharing my screen -- the big icons help people to see my mouse. If I press F9 again, then the mouse returns to the normal small size.
- I've remapped the "Pause/Break" button. (In 40+ years, I've never used that button to pause/break anything.) Instead, it turns on/off the audio recorder on my telephone. With the push of a button, I can record any call to an MP3. (I use it to record spam phone calls; I wrote about the script back in 2014.) If the phone rings from an unknown caller, I press the button to record and then answer the phone. (And yes, recording calls is legal in Colorado.)
- The lower-right corner of most 101-key keyboards has a "Menu" button. I've remapped that to mute/unmute my speakers. (Sometimes I can't immediately find the app that is making sounds and I just want the computer to shut up while I take a call. Tap one key for mute.) However, this HP keyboard predates the "Windows" and "Menu" buttons, so I'll need to remap the mute/unmute to a different key. (Maybe F8; I never use that key!)